br0k3n
Member
Registered: 21st Nov 06
User status: Offline
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I decided I would write a detailed "how to" on how to replace the gear linkage on a Corsa C (and maybe others?) for a number of reasons:
1. To avoid paying in excess of £150 at the dealer
2. Because it's a very common fault and would be useful to a lot of people
3. It's not very well documented on the internet
Could a mod move this to the relevant section if it's suitable? 
Sadly no pics but I will try to be as detailed as possible.
*****
Parts needed
Gear linkage:
I bought this one: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=200193275512&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT&ih=010
Just make sure it's a genuine GM part, it's made of metal (if it's plastic you'll encounter the same problem in 40k miles or so) and it comes with a new plastic cap to secure it to the bracket.
T50 (Torx) tool:
I used the one from a Professional set I bought from Halfords a while ago. I think it cost under a tenner for the set. Cheap ones from eBay might snap so it might pay to get a proper one. Although I did snap my T45 on my Golf, but that's a story for another time. 
4-5mm drill bit etc:
See later.
*****
Step 1:
Pop the hood and have a look inside. Look at your new linkage and look for the old linkage so you have a better idea of how it works. The right side of the linkage attaches to the selector pin which plunges in and out of the transmission housing. The left side is clamped to the selector rod which goes through the firewall to the gearstick. Finally, the pivoting part is secured to a bracket with a plastic cap which is a PITA to remove.
Step 2:
Detach the right side of the linkage. There's a bracket holding the selector pin and a small pin which goes through it which secures it to the linkage. You need to remove the pin which secures the linkage to this pivoting bracket. If you feel on the right side of the bracket there is a small clip which you can push in and then remove the small pin. I had to get a flathead screwdriver underneath the lip of the other side to help ease it out. Once it's out, put it aside. Don't lose it! And don't destroy it.
Step 3:
Detach the left side from the selector rod. A lot of people say you need to get the car in the air and go at it from underneath the car... Well, I don't know if they just have bigger engines (my girlfriend's is a 1.0L) but it's very easily accessible from the top. The actual Torx bolt is facing down but if you look at the new linkage you will understand. You need to turn the bolt TOWARDS you to loosen it. That is, make the bolt turn right. Remove the bolt completely and put it aside. Now you can grab hold of the selector rod and push it back (into the vehicle) and slip it out of the clamp. Be careful of the rubber boot.
Step 4:
Now the hardest part of the job - removing the plastic cap! If you look in the middle of the pivoting part you will see a black plastic cap which secures it down. There are four hooked pieces around it which keep it in place. Well... I don't really have any tips here, I'm afraid. Actually, I do have one. It helps if you "hug" the engine by putting your left arm round the left-hand side of the engine. This enables you to steady the cap with the left hand and attack it with the right. If you have a new one (which you should), go crazy. A Dremel might come in handy. Once it's off, go have a beer. It's almost over.
Step 5:
By this point you should be able to remove the old linkage. Find some nice fresh dog sh*t, smother the linkage in it and then post it to the Vauxhall head office.
Step 6:
Maneuver the new linkage into position. First we will attach the pivot to the bracket as it's easier to get the cap on with the other sides free. It might help if you use a screwdriver to bend the clips of the new cap outwards a little. If you can get a hammer in there to gently tap it on, then great. I couldn't. Just make sure it's ON FIRMLY as you don't want it popping off.
Step 7:
Reattach the selector rod. As easy as detaching it. However, DO NOT tighten the clamp. You need the rod to be able to slip in and out so that we can adjust it in a minute.
Step 8:
Reattach the right side. As easy as slipping the old pin through the new linkage and bracket.
Step 9:
Now it's all installed you need to align the linkage so the gearstick is in the correct position. First step is to go in the car and pull up the leather gaiter around the gearstick. It's just clipped on. If you look on the left side of the well there is a small hole in a white piece of plastic. If you look on the left side of the stick there is a black plastic piece with a hole in. Get it? Push the stick to the left (kind of between first and second gear) and put a 4-5mm thing through it to lock it to the left. I used a Torx bit. Ideally you want something that fills the top hole as much as possible (as it's wider than the lower hole). This will ensure that the stick has less play while it's locked like this. If there's a lot of play in this locked position, find something larger to jam in the hole.
Step 10:
Back to the engine bay. There are two things I must draw your attention to. Look at the backet for the selector pin on the right of the linkage (the thing we just detached and reattached with that metal pin). If you grab the bracket and twist it to the left or right of the engine bay, you will notice that the bracket and selector pin can turn against spring pressure (i.e. they spring back to the original position). Make a mental note of this.
Step 11:
The selector pin enters the gear selector/transmission housing. The housing has a kind of domed head. If you look at the front of the head and slightly more to the right you will see a small yellow button and a spring. It might be caked in road/engine crap so look hard.
Step 12:
Now then... You need to twist the bracket ANTICLOCKWISE while pushing in the yellow button and, if you get it right, the button will lock in slightly to lock the selector pin in position. One thing to note is that it doesn't travel very far when you twist it anticlockwise - it travels much further if you twist it clockwise. Also, the button pushes in more firmly when you twist it clockwise. The actions are a lot more subtle when you twist it anticlockwise. However, twisting it clockwise is not correct and this is what threw me for ages - so make sure you twist it ANTICLOCKWISE (to the left)!
Step 13:
Pay careful attention to the yellow button and selector pin and start to tighten that last Torx bolt which secures the left side of the linkage to the selector rod. I don't know the torque setting off the top of my head but I will add it later. If the yellow button pops out it's probably best to loosen the bolt and try twisting and locking again.
Step 14:
Jump back in the car, remove the implement from the left of the gearstick, put your foot on the clutch, pull the stick up and put it in reverse. Now pop it back into neutral, wiggle it about and test all the gears with the engine off. If it feels right, pull the gaiter down and go take it for a test drive. If it's not aligned properly then you need to repeat the alignment procedure again.
*****
That's it.
It took me 3 hours, including running upstairs to check this forum and Google, and occassional cursing/swearing fits. Now that I've done it once, it would take me 15 minutes.
Anyway, I hope this helps some people. Don't forget to send that pooh linkage to Vauxhall.
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Joe
Member
Registered: 20th Jun 04
Location: Hesketh Bank, Lancashire
User status: Offline
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For the black cap thing you struggled with, get a small flat screwdriver and bend the little legs back. Easy peasy.
Also when I am alligning them, I just fit it all up and then put the gearstick in where you think should be the neutral position. Tighten the bolt, 9 times out of 10 its spot on.
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br0k3n
Member
Registered: 21st Nov 06
User status: Offline
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quote:
Originally posted by Joe
For the black cap thing you struggled with, get a small flat screwdriver and bend the little legs back. Easy peasy.
Also when I am alligning them, I just fit it all up and then put the gearstick in where you think should be the neutral position. Tighten the bolt, 9 times out of 10 its spot on.
Good tip. Where were you this afternoon?!
I had to attack the cap with mole grips to get rid of the majority of the plastic just so I could get at the little clips. 
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TomWilly
Member
Registered: 20th Sep 05
Location: Bristol
User status: Offline
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quote:
Originally posted by Joe
For the black cap thing you struggled with, get a small flat screwdriver and bend the little legs back. Easy peasy.
Also when I am alligning them, I just fit it all up and then put the gearstick in where you think should be the neutral position. Tighten the bolt, 9 times out of 10 its spot on.
Agreed
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B3KAN
Member
Registered: 15th Feb 07
Location: Inverness, Highland
User status: Offline
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Nice guide  
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