Gazdaman
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Registered: 30th Aug 07
Location: Leicester
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Ok, I've just got an XE and am planning a conversion for later in the year.
Oil cooler, to blank it off do I just use any bolts that'll fit where the banjo bolts are just above the oil filter?
Service wise, it's apart, head's off. What should I do? I was planning on valve oil seals, oil, filter, plugs, cam belt and spark plugs. Should I be looking at doing the main bearings and shells?
To get the bottom pulley off, are they male torx bolts? Or are they just special 8mm bolts I can use a normal socket on? Don't wanna damage anything y'see.
It's all so damn dirty! Just need to clean it up, bolt it all together, and drop it into my car 
Anyone got any conversion guides they can send over? Is it worth buying one off eBay?
Gaz
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alan-g-w
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Registered: 9th Nov 07
Location: Glasgow
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If it's a toss up between doing the bearings or not, might as well go for it in my opinion - not too clued up on bottom end stuff though.
And the bottom pulley bolts are male torx 
[Edited on 20-03-2009 by alan-g-w]
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Gazdaman
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Registered: 30th Aug 07
Location: Leicester
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Mmm, ok so I'll need to buy a new tool before I can completely hammerite the block. Damn, anyone what size male torx? There's 2 different sizes there iirc.
I'm tempted to leave the bottom end alone, the engine's only 70k and it was cheap, so I'm tempted to just suck it and see. If they need doing at a later date, I can do.
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john_c20xe
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Registered: 10th Feb 08
Location: Eastbourne, EastSussex
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have you got proof of the 70 k milage?
i would chuck sum shells in while its out to make life easier, something less to go wrong then,
and why dont you want to use the oil cooler?
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Gazdaman
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Registered: 30th Aug 07
Location: Leicester
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I read somewhere that the oil cooler really wasn't necessary. And it's just another thing I have to squeeze in and find somewhere to mount.
And I don't have proof of the mileage no. Just shells isn't too expensive, that's only about £20 for a set. But then if it's mains aswell, that's another £40 or so.
Gaz
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john_c20xe
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Registered: 10th Feb 08
Location: Eastbourne, EastSussex
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oil cooler isnt hard to fit myte aswell use it
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Gazdaman
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Registered: 30th Aug 07
Location: Leicester
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Also how can I tell if my engine is an early or late type?
Been looking into buying a new cam belt, and head bolts recently. And I need to specify which XE I have...How can I tell?
Gaz
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dazjones25
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Registered: 5th Nov 08
Location: Uxbridge, middlesex
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i think the earlyer 1's had a dizzy
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Luke
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Registered: 9th Dec 05
Location: Oxford Drives:Corsa B C20LET
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Yeah, early type is dizzy & has a round tooth cam pullys & a later type is dis-pac & has square tooth pulleys.
Would recomend doing oil pump & water pump aswell.
If the engine is apart just re-build it.
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Terry12
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Registered: 24th Sep 07
Location: Manchester
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I've fitted the oil cooler on my Corsa, Was simple to fit by making up a couple of brackets.
If you choose to remove the oil cooler you need to remove the big bolt through the middle of the sandwaich plate, iirc it's about a 12mm allen key extension.
The sandwich plate is then removable and you just need to replace the allen bolt for a shorter one. The big bolt is what the oil filter screws onto.
My engine has done a documented 130k so I changed the shells and rod bolts for ARP's. The shells on mine were ever so little worn, Didn't look like 130k miles of use though but still worth replacing.
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Terry12
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Registered: 24th Sep 07
Location: Manchester
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If your pulley bolts are standard then don't use a standard socket, You'll round them like I did on mine evev though I used the correct female torx bit. I had to remove the sprocket and vice the pulley up whilst getting the rounded bolts off.
I've replaced the bolts for cap head bolts, Just make sure you replace them.
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Gazdaman
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Registered: 30th Aug 07
Location: Leicester
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Good tip on the pulley bolts! I'll replace those. I might keep the oil cooler.
Part of me wants to replace the shells, but part of me really doesn't want to do the work.
Gaz
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Terry12
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Registered: 24th Sep 07
Location: Manchester
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It was too easy not to do for me as I planned to get the block on the engine stand paint the block and replace the sump gasket it as 90% of XE's leak through the sump gasket.
Whilst the sump is off it takes 10 mins to replace the shells.
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alan-g-w
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Registered: 9th Nov 07
Location: Glasgow
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I managed to change the bottom pulley bolts without rounding any of them. Just get a bit of penetrating oil in about it, or failing that WD40.
If it was an engine with 130k on it I'd imagine they might be quite buggered though!
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Terry12
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Registered: 24th Sep 07
Location: Manchester
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Nah, I was well surprised on the condition of the shells, I'd of guessed 50k on them by looking at them. Original shells too as they were stamped 1989 on them.
I oiled my bolts up but they wouldn't budge. Had to knock smaller torx bit on and hang off them to budge.
I know a lot of people who had the same issue.
[Edited on 22-03-2009 by Terry12]
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Gazdaman
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Registered: 30th Aug 07
Location: Leicester
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Fair enough, I was planning on replacing the sump gasket, and it's on the engine stand, so it's easy enough to turn upside down!
I'll do the damn shells then. Main bearings too?
I suppose I may aswell overhaul the engine now while it's out.
Gaz
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Terry12
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Registered: 24th Sep 07
Location: Manchester
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I just replaced the big ends on mine.
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Torsa g
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Registered: 20th Sep 07
Location: Tamworth. Rides: An OSTRIDGE
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very rare for a xe main to go wrong to be honest i would just do the big ends and youll be safe with that!
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Gazdaman
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Registered: 30th Aug 07
Location: Leicester
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Then that's what I shall do! I think mine's a late type XE aswell with a dis-pac and square teeth. Suppose that means I can get cam belt ordered.
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moxon508
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Registered: 12th Feb 09
Location: west yorks
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if you take off the oil cap and look at the saddle holding the cam shaft in there is a circle stamped on it with a date inside stating date of the engine. iy will say 92 if its a 1992
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alan-g-w
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Registered: 9th Nov 07
Location: Glasgow
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quote:
Originally posted by Gazdaman
Then that's what I shall do! I think mine's a late type XE aswell with a dis-pac and square teeth. Suppose that means I can get cam belt ordered.
Check if it has one idler pulley or two, I got asked that when I phoned up for a belt.
And there are two numbers of teeth on belts - 176 which was mine and another that I forget.
[Edited on 23-03-2009 by alan-g-w]
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Gazdaman
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Registered: 30th Aug 07
Location: Leicester
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Started cleaning up my F20 today, and I found a small hole near the 'sump'. It's that black bit in the middle of the photo. It's about 2.5mm x 2.5mm. Oil doesn't appear to leak out, but I havn't actually had it running yet. Is the gearbox scrap? Could I fill the hole? Or is it fine as it is?
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Terry12
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Registered: 24th Sep 07
Location: Manchester
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That's spooky, My F20 has that same hole in the same place
I thought it was damage by a previos owner but as the inner metal wasn't damaged I left it alone.
I've not driven my car yet but have had it running and rolling on the drive with no oil leaking from the hole.
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Gazdaman
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Registered: 30th Aug 07
Location: Leicester
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Yeah, it doesn't seem to leak from the hole. So I guess there must be an inner skin in there between the oil and the great outdoors. Not sure though.
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Terry12
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Registered: 24th Sep 07
Location: Manchester
User status: Offline
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Yeah there is. Is you remove the sump you'll see it's double skinned and there's a void of around 2-3cm between the 2 skins. It won't leak unless the inner skin get's pierced like on my last F20
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