Simon
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Registered: 24th Apr 03
Location: Oxfordshire
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I've had my bike just over a year now, first one I've owned with hydraulic brakes, I'm pretty sure I need to replace pads and bleed the brakes. Both levers have a lot of travel.
I've phoned a couple of shops and they both want ~£60 to replace the pads and bleed the brakes. I used to work in a bike department years ago but at that time we didn't have anything with hydraulic or even mechanical disc brakes so I don't really know what I'm doing on them. I've looked at the bleed kits and they seem to be ~ £50 anyway. The brakes are shimano deore BR M486
What do others do, sort it yourself or get the shops to do it? Is it an easy process to have a go at?
Cheers
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Pop
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Registered: 8th May 03
Location: Reading
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I've not done it for ages but I have Magura hydraulic brakes. They have a dial on the levers which prolongues the period before you need to bleed the brakes.
The actual bleeding process was pretty easy. To be honest though if it's only £10 more to have someone else do it I'd go for it and save any potential hassle.
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jimmy 2.1
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Registered: 17th Oct 05
Location: Shipley, West Yorkshire
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I've got Avid Elixir R hydraulic brakes. I had to buy a bleed kit which was £40. Expensive for a couple of syringes and brake fluid, but a couple of mates have Avid brakes so they give me a tenner to bleed their brakes. I get my brake pads from Superstar Components. Look them up on Google. They're really well priced and super quick at delivering.
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mwg
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Registered: 19th Feb 04
Location: South Lakes
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I just ship mine off to the shop and get them to sort stuff 
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Simon
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Registered: 24th Apr 03
Location: Oxfordshire
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I kind of want to get the kit and do it myself, can do everyhing else on my bike so bit annoying having something I can't. But at same time I want to give it somebody to do it perfect first time both bike shops were quoting £15 for each pair of pads. How much is it worth spending on pads. I take it there is a range of shit to good ones?
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jacko198
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Registered: 1st Mar 07
Location: Buckinghamshire
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£15 for pads is normal tbh. Especially for the standard ones.
Heres our pricelist for example
http://www.formbycycles.co.uk/page/21/Service_Repair
£30 for bleeding both brakes. Then £15 for pads
The pads are seriously easy to fit youreself. Litteraly unscrew the bolt holding them in then slide them out
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Simon
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Registered: 24th Apr 03
Location: Oxfordshire
User status: Offline
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i dont think mine are even a screw, jusr a bent pin
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Ste
Premium Member
Registered: 5th Mar 03
Location: Taif, Saudi Arabia
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I've got Juicy Threes on mine, had the bike a year and not feeling any spongyness or travel. I have a mate who owns a bike shop so servicing is free for me so sorry for this pointless post haha.
I would rather lose by a mile because i built my own car, than win by an inch because someone else built it for me.
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Toby
Premium Member
Registered: 29th Nov 05
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Bleeding the brakes is easy just attach a clear tube to the bled nipple into some sort of catch tank and away to go
open nipple. pull brake leaver. close nipple. release lever. Repeat.
hints would be tap the cable to get all the air out of it and adjust the lever until it is level on the bars and also don't let the reservoir run dry as you will drag air into the system and have to start again.
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spikedjack
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Registered: 16th Oct 08
Location: wolverhampton/cannock
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the shimano brakes should be able to be bled using a cyclo universal bleed kit, otherwise check madison for their own kits.
superstar components for pads are good, but they are prone to contamination
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daz 16v
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Registered: 12th Jun 06
Location: Pemberton, Wigan
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cyclo bleed kit is £33 with free next delivery
http://www.winstanleysbikes.co.uk/product/14872/Cyclo_Universal_Brake_Bleed_Kit
[Edited on 16-07-2010 by daz 16v]
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Simon
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Registered: 24th Apr 03
Location: Oxfordshire
User status: Offline
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what does contamination mean with pads?
I've ordered all bits separately for £55 but that's with loads of oil and 4 packs of pads so better deal I think.
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jacko198
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Registered: 1st Mar 07
Location: Buckinghamshire
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tKueHUBM0J0
Should be the same for your's really.
Contamination is when your pads get covered in shite, making them less efective. Anything greasy or oily getting onto the pads messes them up and they will not perform as well. Usually it is just easier to get new pads once they are contaminated.
Make sure you dont get any on the rotor when you do it aswell. Water should de-activate the fluid, but just try not to get it anywhere, especially skin, mine likes to bubble if i get it on mine :s
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ed
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Registered: 10th Sep 03
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If they're anything like a Hope open system then they're a piece of piss to bleed and you just need some fluid and a bit of clear pipe. Why do you need to bleed them though? Have they gone spongy?
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gavin18787
Premium Member
Registered: 22nd Feb 05
Location: Basildon, Essex
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Hope brakes are lovely to work on
Maggie HS33's and avid juicys not so much 
Drives supercharged Tec with torque  
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antnee
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Registered: 30th Dec 07
Location: Cov Drives: Clio 197
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I've been told that of the brakes were set up and bedded in correctly they should never need bleeding.
That's coming from someone, who's raced all forms off cycling, easing in top 10th for downhill in the UK, has built and set up 100s of team bikes (and races in mega avalanche every year, for those that know about racing)
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ed
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Registered: 10th Sep 03
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What's bedding them in got to do with getting air in the fluid or overheating the fluid?
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gavin18787
Premium Member
Registered: 22nd Feb 05
Location: Basildon, Essex
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also if they run on dot and not mineral (think shimano may be the later actually) it will deteriate over time anyway
Drives supercharged Tec with torque
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spikedjack
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Registered: 16th Oct 08
Location: wolverhampton/cannock
User status: Offline
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im not familiar with those shimano's are they open or closed system to bleed?
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antnee
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Registered: 30th Dec 07
Location: Cov Drives: Clio 197
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quote:
Originally posted by ed
What's bedding them in got to do with getting air in the fluid or overheating the fluid?
If the seals aren't bedded in correctly then they could spilt or let dirt/air in.
A 'healthy' system shouldn't let any air or dirt in, therefore shouldn't need bleeding.
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ed
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Registered: 10th Sep 03
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The seals don't need bedding in.
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antnee
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Registered: 30th Dec 07
Location: Cov Drives: Clio 197
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quote:
Originally posted by ed
The seals don't need bedding in.
If you say so, but I'll take my mates word on it, as he also tests pre-production bikes (some of which I have riden too)
Edit; The seals do need bedding in, usually takes 30-50 miles before they are fully working, in this time the caliper needs to be aligned correctly to the disc otherwise, one side will work harder and eventually knacker the seals
[Edited on 18-07-2010 by antnee]
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ed
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Registered: 10th Sep 03
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Leave the engineering to the engineers.
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Simon
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Registered: 24th Apr 03
Location: Oxfordshire
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Had all the stuff delivered during week and did the brakes yesterday. Piece of piss, glad didn't pay the shop to do it. Brakes are back to arse over tit stopping power
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Steve
Premium Member
Registered: 30th Mar 02
Location: Worcestershire Drives: Defender
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why would seals need bedding in 
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