oxidized paint - Corsa Sport - for Vauxhall and Opel Corsa B, Corsa C and Corsa D

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IvIarkgraham

Premium Member

Registered: 27th Mar 04
Location: Ellesmere Port, Cheshire
User status: Offline

13th Aug 13 at 01:32

Might be getting a atlantis blue corsa this week. body work is in good condition but the paint has oxidized.

what is the best way/products to use to try and restore it as much as I can?

g3 and a decent polisher?

t cut and wax over it? or just a decent polish and wax?

BenC1985

Member

Registered: 5th May 12
Location: Northants
User status: Offline

13th Aug 13 at 06:44

Autofinnesse tripple would do it. Or as you say t cut and then wax it to protect it.

IvIarkgraham

Premium Member

Registered: 27th Mar 04
Location: Ellesmere Port, Cheshire
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13th Aug 13 at 17:02

no one else?

Generation

Member

Registered: 7th Jul 09
Location: Essex
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13th Aug 13 at 17:07

Thanks Ben for your help

IvIarkgraham

Premium Member

Registered: 27th Mar 04
Location: Ellesmere Port, Cheshire
User status: Offline

13th Aug 13 at 17:10

quote:
Originally posted by Generation
Thanks Ben for your help

shit, sorry ben. Thanks

evilrob

Premium Member

Registered: 16th Mar 12
Location: Your mum's house
User status: Offline

13th Aug 13 at 17:21

Autoglym Super Resin Polish followed by Werkstat Carnauba Jett for a two-stage process.

Or if you want to go all out, Autoglym Super Resin Polish followed by CarLack68 Nano Systematic Care UV-resistant sealant to help stop it fading again, topped with Collinite 476 wax for durability.

Corsa_Sport21

Member

Registered: 13th Apr 08
Location: Leven, Fife. Drives : 205 GTi
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13th Aug 13 at 17:33

If you want it to last a decent period of time, i would probably hit it with a machine polisher and some G3/G10.

You will get ok results by hand, but it won't last long and won't look as good as what you would get from a machine polish.

evilrob

Premium Member

Registered: 16th Mar 12
Location: Your mum's house
User status: Offline

13th Aug 13 at 17:44

quote:
Originally posted by Corsa_Sport21
If you want it to last a decent period of time, i would probably hit it with a machine polisher and some G3/G10.

You will get ok results by hand, but it won't last long and won't look as good as what you would get from a machine polish.

I just think G3 might be a bit too aggressive. I'd have a go with SRP by hand first to see how it comes out personally.

[Edited on 13-08-2013 by evilrob]

Martin W

Organiser: South East
Premium Member

Registered: 10th Aug 09
Location: Welling, Greater London
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13th Aug 13 at 17:45

g3 and polisher will sort it no problem

IvIarkgraham

Premium Member

Registered: 27th Mar 04
Location: Ellesmere Port, Cheshire
User status: Offline

13th Aug 13 at 19:01

only want it brought back to a sellable state

cheers for the help, i'll try it out by hand and borrow a polisher if i need to

IvIarkgraham

Premium Member

Registered: 27th Mar 04
Location: Ellesmere Port, Cheshire
User status: Offline

13th Aug 13 at 21:09

bought a polisher now, so i'll attack the shit out of it.

Tomnova16

Premium Member

Registered: 21st Jan 06
Location: Gerrards Cross Drives: Porsche 911
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13th Aug 13 at 21:23

Respray

http://www.lemass.co.uk/ for all your automotive/bodyshop needs
Located in Chalfont st Peter

evilrob

Premium Member

Registered: 16th Mar 12
Location: Your mum's house
User status: Offline

13th Aug 13 at 22:28

quote:
Originally posted by IvIarkgraham
bought a polisher now, so i'll attack the shit out of it.

I wouldn't recommend 'attacking the shit out of it' - I'd be taking it very easy. G3 is more than capable of ripping right through the paint even with a DA polisher - it's like liquid sandpaper. (I assume we're talking about G3 polishing compound here and not the paint restorer product which is considerably less abrasive).

If you've got an empty spray bottle handy, you might want to fill it with water and spritz the area you're polishing regularly to prevent the polish from drying out and add a bit of lubrication to keep the heat down.

evilrob

Premium Member

Registered: 16th Mar 12
Location: Your mum's house
User status: Offline

13th Aug 13 at 22:30

Where's Rich H when you need him?

IvIarkgraham

Premium Member

Registered: 27th Mar 04
Location: Ellesmere Port, Cheshire
User status: Offline

13th Aug 13 at 22:36

quote:
Originally posted by Tomnova16
Respray

£50?

IvIarkgraham

Premium Member

Registered: 27th Mar 04
Location: Ellesmere Port, Cheshire
User status: Offline

13th Aug 13 at 22:37

quote:
Originally posted by evilrob

quote:
Originally posted by IvIarkgraham
bought a polisher now, so i'll attack the shit out of it.

I wouldn't recommend 'attacking the shit out of it' - I'd be taking it very easy. G3 is more than capable of ripping right through the paint even with a DA polisher - it's like liquid sandpaper. (I assume we're talking about G3 polishing compound here and not the paint restorer product which is considerably less abrasive).

If you've got an empty spray bottle handy, you might want to fill it with water and spritz the area you're polishing regularly to prevent the polish from drying out and add a bit of lubrication to keep the heat down.

might try t cut first, i'll keep the water trick in mind

Graeme

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Registered: 26th Jul 04
Location: Northampton
User status: Offline

13th Aug 13 at 23:07

G3 will be fine. Keep it on a low speed and keep moving at a steady even pace. Then will need to go over with a light scratch remover and correct head then a glaze, the 3m system is good.

Green head bottle and pad, yellow, then blue.

evilrob

Premium Member

Registered: 16th Mar 12
Location: Your mum's house
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13th Aug 13 at 23:20

T-Cut is also very abrasive, and you should exercise caution when using with a machine as it was designed for application by hand; like G3 it would be very easy to do more harm than good.

I'm not saying you won't need to resort to the kind of cutting power afforded by G3 or T-Cut, but you're not removing nasty scratches, it's just oxidisation (as far as I'm aware).

In any case, whenever you are polishing a car it's best to start with a lower cut and work your way up. It's easy to remove tiny (or not so tiny!) layers of paint; it's considerably harder to put it back if you take off too much!

I'm pretty confident an all-in-one like Auto Finesse Trippple mentioned above by Ben, or the Autoglym Super Resin polish I recommended will be more than enough to get the paint in order. You *will* want to top it with sealant or wax, or sealant THEN wax (never the other way around) - otherwise it will just start oxidising again and it will look poo after a matter of weeks.

What polisher/pads have you got?

I'm making the assumption that you know how to prep the paint for correction (i.e. wash / dry / clay). If you don't clay the surface to remove bonded contaminants before polishing, you may well remove the layer of oxidation, but you'll also impart a bunch of swirl marks in the good paint you reveal.

IvIarkgraham

Premium Member

Registered: 27th Mar 04
Location: Ellesmere Port, Cheshire
User status: Offline

14th Aug 13 at 00:45

not sure on the model, but its apparently a bluepoint polisher with no pads

links to pads would be appreciated if you are feeling bored/helpful

I'll try the auto finesse tripple first then

would that be ok to use on my astra too? light swirls

evilrob

Premium Member

Registered: 16th Mar 12
Location: Your mum's house
User status: Offline

14th Aug 13 at 01:15

I could really do with a model number before I can suggest any backing plates or pads.

Auto Finesse Tripple is a safe bet in any circumstance. Best applied by hand with a microfibre pad (Meguiar's do a good one) and buffed off with a good quality microfibre cloth. It won't necessarily correct your swirls depending on how deep they are but it will certainly sort out light swirls and reduce the appearance of / hide deeper imperfections if any. Claying first is still a good idea to pull all the crap out of the swirls to ensure the best finish, and whilst not strictly speaking necessary (as it does leave some wax protection behind) I'd still recommend putting another layer of wax over it.

If you wash your Astra with one bucket and a big yellow sponge, you might want to invest in a second bucket (Google "two bucket technique"), some decent shampoo (Dodo Juice Born to be Mild is my favourite) and a lambswool mitt, as it will largely be your wash regime that is responsible for the swirls in the first place. Otherwise you'll be in an endless cycle of inflicting and correcting swirls!

IvIarkgraham

Premium Member

Registered: 27th Mar 04
Location: Ellesmere Port, Cheshire
User status: Offline

14th Aug 13 at 06:14

there is very minimal swirls on the astra because I use a wash mit and 2 buckets

clayed twice a year etc etc

plus its silver so ver hard to see them anyway, just thought i would do it whilst im doing this other one.

i'll update the thread when I receive the polisher with model numbers

Ben G

Member

Registered: 12th Jan 07
Location: Essex
User status: Offline

14th Aug 13 at 06:19

quote:
Originally posted by evilrob

quote:
Originally posted by IvIarkgraham
bought a polisher now, so i'll attack the shit out of it.

I wouldn't recommend 'attacking the shit out of it' - I'd be taking it very easy. G3 is more than capable of ripping right through the paint even with a DA polisher - it's like liquid sandpaper. (I assume we're talking about G3 polishing compound here and not the paint restorer product which is considerably less abrasive).

If you've got an empty spray bottle handy, you might want to fill it with water and spritz the area you're polishing regularly to prevent the polish from drying out and add a bit of lubrication to keep the heat down.

Spritz