Ben G
Member
Registered: 12th Jan 07
Location: Essex
User status: Offline
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Will this work?
http://www.hids-direct.co.uk/super-canbus-hid-decoders-bulb-error-fix-obc-fix/
The description of the item makes me believe it will, but the disclaimer says it may not.
Kenny, these are the ones I bought:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Xenon-HID-Conversion-KIT-H7-5000K-Digital-Mini-Ballasts-Metal-base-HID-bulbs-/251359945434?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3a863862da
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Ben G
Member
Registered: 12th Jan 07
Location: Essex
User status: Offline
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Thinking about binning the set completely and buying another set from Hid's direct for 55-60 quid.
Wish i'd known about them before!
May give those decoder things a try first though, just to make sure.
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mattievRS
Member
Registered: 20th May 06
Location: Leicester
User status: Offline
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The flickering on my volvo was sorted by fitting some canbus cancellers (or basically capacitors) although it's not canbus. It smooths the current out nicely and keeps it at a constant output.
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Ben G
Member
Registered: 12th Jan 07
Location: Essex
User status: Offline
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Cheers mattie. I'll buy some of them canbus things and give it a try 
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Jambo
Member
Registered: 8th Sep 01
Location: Maidenhead, Drives: VXR Arctic
User status: Offline
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Relay harness will be better IMO. That's the proper way to deal with extra current needed to fire the ballasts. Canbus cancelled might be needed on top of that if your. At requires them. But they may not need it and essentially you are just chucking stuff at it hoping it works.
Check earths
Check ballasts
Fit relay harness
Fit canbus cancellers (if vehicle REQUIRES these, fit before harness)
Harness will make your wiring last longer if nothing else. Less chance of fire etc
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Ben G
Member
Registered: 12th Jan 07
Location: Essex
User status: Offline
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Today was lovely and woke up early after a night shift, so managed to sort the HID's out.
Bumper and headlamps off again (4th time in a week) then took out the hybrid hid/halogen bulbs and connected up my canbus cancellers.
Nice load of wiring and boxes:
All packed tightly into the housing:
On start-up, they flicker a little (3 times when warming up), then they seem fine. No bulb out issues or strobing so it's an improvement.
I can live with the start up flicker for now. Definitely looks a lot more OEM than my previous set up.
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BeetleGav
Member
Registered: 27th Jun 10
Location: lancashire, nelson
User status: Offline
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get some vaseline on the seal for the backs to save them steaming up again. works for mine
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Ben G
Member
Registered: 12th Jan 07
Location: Essex
User status: Offline
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Sod that, everythings back on now and i'm not attempting to get those covers off going through the wheelarch 
N/S one is fine, just the O/S one which had water in before has some condensation inside. Bit of warm weather should sort it.
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BeetleGav
Member
Registered: 27th Jun 10
Location: lancashire, nelson
User status: Offline
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warm weather wont get rid of it though i dont think.
getting the covers off through the wheel arch is piss easy!
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Ben G
Member
Registered: 12th Jan 07
Location: Essex
User status: Offline
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It is if you're at 4x4 height  lowered it's nearly impossible.
I snapped off a bracket that holds that metal clip in place the other week trying to get it off through the arch. Thays why water got in as had to leave the cover off until I got it fixed.
Had to drill another hole further down, which means the clip is now solid and can't be removed when on the car.
[Edited on 13-02-2014 by Ben G]
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BeetleGav
Member
Registered: 27th Jun 10
Location: lancashire, nelson
User status: Offline
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haha you ALWAYS break something
fitting the rear springs this weekend then getting the fronts done next friday 
fuck the lack of traction control that can wait
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FlaFFy_91
Premium Member
Registered: 30th Sep 08
Location: Formby, Merseyside
User status: Offline
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Chuck a silica pack (out of a new pair of shoes) in the back of the light.
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Ben G
Member
Registered: 12th Jan 07
Location: Essex
User status: Offline
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Wish I had done that now flaffy  it should go away itself though. It did last time. Theres a breather hole in the housing iirc.
Good lad Gav. Will look good lowered on the ch's. What springs did you go for?
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BeetleGav
Member
Registered: 27th Jun 10
Location: lancashire, nelson
User status: Offline
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same springs as yours mate, should sit perfect to me.
where did you stick the axle stand when you did the rears? i usually just leave it up with the jack but ill need that to lift the hub back to the shocker
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FlaFFy_91
Premium Member
Registered: 30th Sep 08
Location: Formby, Merseyside
User status: Offline
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quote:
Originally posted by Ben G
Wish I had done that now flaffy it should go away itself though. It did last time. Theres a breather hole in the housing iirc.
Good lad Gav. Will look good lowered on the ch's. What springs did you go for?
It will do. But if you've ever got the bumper off again. Might aswell chuck one in anyways  glad you sorted it out anyways mate.
My side lights strobe for like a minute when I switch the car on. Stops if you switch the lights on though. Hasn't bothered me tbh.
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Ben G
Member
Registered: 12th Jan 07
Location: Essex
User status: Offline
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quote:
Originally posted by BeetleGav
same springs as yours mate, should sit perfect to me.
where did you stick the axle stand when you did the rears? i usually just leave it up with the jack but ill need that to lift the hub back to the shocker
Think I put it under the rear in the centre. Think the diff housing is there or something. Certainly held thecar up fine. Jacking the hub back up makes the job so much easier.
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Ben G
Member
Registered: 12th Jan 07
Location: Essex
User status: Offline
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No more flickering/red light tinge on start-up  for once, something I did actually worked
Oil service tomorrow. Was meant to be last week but he had to cancel it. Such a bastard as i'm on nights and need to stay up tomorrow morning
Going to be ripping that cf wrap off soon. It's rippled in places around the edges, must have not left enough excess. Shame, but I definitely want them sprayed gloss black now.
[Edited on 14-02-2014 by Ben G]
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BeetleGav
Member
Registered: 27th Jun 10
Location: lancashire, nelson
User status: Offline
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Mines still fine you Amature!
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3CorsaMeal
Member
Registered: 11th Apr 02
User status: Offline
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Possible reaction with the fake tan and hair products.
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Ben G
Member
Registered: 12th Jan 07
Location: Essex
User status: Offline
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it's only at one point, probably got creased when I put the trim back on. Not a big deal.
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Ben G
Member
Registered: 12th Jan 07
Location: Essex
User status: Offline
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Took the car to Power Developments BMW yesterday (a reasonably priced specialist) for an oil service. 120 quid later and I have nice new oil and have an indicated 15500 miles until an inspection 2.
Couple things the guy picked up on were badly worn insides of the rear tyres. It's literally just the shoulder as the rest of the tread is fine, so need to sort a wheel alignment out and buy some less stretched tyres. Thinking 255/30's instead of 235/35's.
The second thing he noticed was a damp smell coming from the interior. Only ever happens when it's raining obviously and does steam up the windows so need to investigate that. He said it usually comes from the boot area but couldn't find any wet patches.
Gives me something to do/break I suppose
[Edited on 16-02-2014 by Ben G]
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BeetleGav
Member
Registered: 27th Jun 10
Location: lancashire, nelson
User status: Offline
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Check the drains in the engine bay
Mine sometimes has a damp smell when it's raining with the heating on :S
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Ben G
Member
Registered: 12th Jan 07
Location: Essex
User status: Offline
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Are they under the scuttle? If so, he did advise me to check them as they could be blocked.
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BeetleGav
Member
Registered: 27th Jun 10
Location: lancashire, nelson
User status: Offline
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Thinkso. I need to do mine aswel so I'm just as unknowing.
Think there's something below the sound generator too somewhere
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Ian
Site Administrator
Registered: 28th Aug 99
Location: Liverpool
User status: Offline
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£120 for an oil change? Jesus.
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