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Author X14XE 1.4 Auto Changing Head Gasket
vxmechanic
Member

Registered: 2nd Jun 08
Location: Ipswich
User status: Offline
8th Apr 09 at 19:07   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

yeh the head gasket goes on dry, but make sure both surface's are clean and dirt free and make sure you oil the head bolt threads when putting them in, make sure there new bolts as well, hope to hear you have it all on soon
cwiffen
Member

Registered: 14th Feb 09
Location: United Kingdom
User status: Offline
12th Apr 09 at 20:51   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Thanks for more top tips, i've scraped off all the old gasket now so nearly ready for re-assembly.
I thought i'd better also do the water pump while i was at it so i'm now stumped as to how you're supposed to get that out without beating the living hell out it and completely destroying it at the same time. ie i gave it quite a few big whacks today and it didn't move.
Any tricks?
thanks Carl
cwiffen
Member

Registered: 14th Feb 09
Location: United Kingdom
User status: Offline
15th Apr 09 at 19:40   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Still not managed to budge it, tried soaking around the outside edge with WD 40 so will try again soon.
Any other ideas ???????????
cheater
Member

Registered: 14th Dec 08
Location: Southampton
User status: Offline
15th Apr 09 at 23:11   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

3 allen key screws which when undone allows you to twist it out. Dont do it right up when replacing it until you are ready to put the cam belt on as it acts as a pre-tensioner.

Let us know of any progress mate.
cwiffen
Member

Registered: 14th Feb 09
Location: United Kingdom
User status: Offline
16th Apr 09 at 14:40   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

I've tried twisting it out with a huge pair of grips and a long bar but it still didnt budge !!!!!
I'm now considering a power chisel (without the chisel bit) to see if i can shock it out.
cheater
Member

Registered: 14th Dec 08
Location: Southampton
User status: Offline
16th Apr 09 at 17:30   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

If it hasnt been changed for a good while, the best way to do it is knock it around with a mallet or hammer left to right, top and bottom and then try twisting it out.

A good application of WD40 around the seals will help prise it out too.

Let me know how you get on.
cwiffen
Member

Registered: 14th Feb 09
Location: United Kingdom
User status: Offline
20th Apr 09 at 18:55   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Hi cheater, tried all that and more but it still wont budge !!!!!
Do you know if it is possible to get in behind the pump to bang it out "through the engine block" , by removing the hose directly behind it, or is there not clear passage to the pump from where the hose connects?
vxmechanic
Member

Registered: 2nd Jun 08
Location: Ipswich
User status: Offline
24th Apr 09 at 17:38   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

the best way is with a soft mallet and keep knocking the pully in every direction until it comes loose
cwiffen
Member

Registered: 14th Feb 09
Location: United Kingdom
User status: Offline
24th Apr 09 at 19:37   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

HOORAY ITS OUT :-)
In the end i had to literally break it out with a cold chisel and very big hammer. It looks like the two metals had reacted and it almost welded itself to the engine block. It took 2 hours to break it into pieces.
I've only got a few cuts and bruises from it but it doesn't matter as i got it out in the end!!!!

So now finally the reassembly can begin.......if i can remember where it all goes!

I've attached a couple of pics that you might like, especially the one of the old water pump all over the floor ha ha.

Thanks again.


cwiffen
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Registered: 14th Feb 09
Location: United Kingdom
User status: Offline
26th Apr 09 at 20:14   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Managed to get the head back on and all torqued down today, so now i can start working through the reassembly !!!
Think i'm gonna do a compression test before i fire it up though just to make sure :-)
cwiffen
Member

Registered: 14th Feb 09
Location: United Kingdom
User status: Offline
2nd May 09 at 13:50   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Hi again, so i've just put the new cambelt on after making sure its all TDC and that was ok.
Before i reconnected everything else i've done a compression test and all 4 cylinders show approx 170 psi BUT the needle on the compression tester slowley drops as soon as i stop the engine turning over.
Is this normal as i thought the pressure should remain constant?
I still haven't screwed on the camshaft cover yet, could this have any effect?
Does it mean i'll have to take the head off again and fit another gasket?
thanks again, Carl
john_c20xe
Member

Registered: 10th Feb 08
Location: Eastbourne, EastSussex
User status: Offline
2nd May 09 at 15:27   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

thats probly just the compression tester leaking mate,
what makes you thing you need to change the head gasket again?
cwiffen
Member

Registered: 14th Feb 09
Location: United Kingdom
User status: Offline
2nd May 09 at 15:31   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Thanks John, i was only thinking that the dropping compression pressure might mean that i had trapped some dirt when fitting the head back on and it might be causing a leak.
Someone else just said it should be ok as well, especially as its a stone cold engine.
So sounds like i should be ok to carry on and refit everything back on before the big switch on !!!!!
cheers
cwiffen
Member

Registered: 14th Feb 09
Location: United Kingdom
User status: Offline
18th May 09 at 20:04   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Ooh i'm getting so close now, its all back together and yesterday i changed the oil (with gushing water out of the sump plug !!!) and refilled the engine with anti-freeze. so just the aux drive belt to go, then i can turn the key to see if it fires.
If it does then i'm just hoping there's no leaks....!
cwiffen
Member

Registered: 14th Feb 09
Location: United Kingdom
User status: Offline
24th May 09 at 19:29   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

BUGGER !
Finished put everything all back together, turned the key and it didn't fire !!!!
I've checked to see all connectors are back together, i've got fuel and spark but not firing at all.
I then did another compression test and for some reason the compression has dropped down to only 4 Bar on each cylinder......huh.....i checked it just after i fitted the cambelt and all was fine at 12 Bar on each!!!!!
Any ideas why it would have suddenly dropped on all 4 cylinders :-(
thanks Carl
cwiffen
Member

Registered: 14th Feb 09
Location: United Kingdom
User status: Offline
26th May 09 at 18:55   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

So i thought i'd check the TDC as the compression had suddenly changed and for some reason the rear camshaft had jumped by about 90 degrees. So i've reset the TDC and set the tensioner slighlty tighter this time and.............guess what................. IT STARTED BRRRrrrmmmmm BRRRrrrrmmmmmm WOOOOoooooo HOOOOOoooooo :-D Just got to check for leaks tomorrow and then if all ok its a test drive !!!!!!!
cwiffen
Member

Registered: 14th Feb 09
Location: United Kingdom
User status: Offline
27th May 09 at 18:33   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Next problem, how the hell do you lock the engine (automatic) to tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt to 70lbft + 45 deg??????
I just tried putting a socket in the way of the camshaft pulley and managed to crack the pulley.....bugger now i've got to change that. At least i know how to do it and its quite simple in the bigger picture of what i've just gone through !!!!!
Please help, is anybody there !!!!!!!!!!
cwiffen
Member

Registered: 14th Feb 09
Location: United Kingdom
User status: Offline
4th Jun 09 at 18:58   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

After speaking to a few people they said just to airgun the crank puley bolt....So i've now actually finished it all...Phew it all seems to be working lovely now :-)

I did also have to change the radiator fan switch cos the fan wasn't switching on but done that and now all is cool !!!

Point to note - Dont bother buying the cheaper patterned part fan switch as the design is wrong ie the thread doesnt go all the way up to the mating face of the nut part. It must do this cos otherwise it just wobbles and leaks once its screwed in, trust me i know and ended getting one from a dealer which fitted perfectly.

Thanks again for all your help
Carl

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