Kano
Member
Registered: 29th Aug 04
Location: Fife
User status: Offline
|
Arite. Ave got a 1.6 Sport with 60k miles on it.
Just bought it recently knowing about a previous tappet problem.
The last owner had all tappets replaced under a dealer warranty.
If I run the car around town with no hard driving all is fine, but if I give it a fair kickin it will start to chap. Also if I sit on the motorway for about 30 miles it starts chapping (only done this once).
The time when its most noticable is when u turn the car off from hot and leave it for a few minutes. When it starts up it chaps for a while.
Ave changed oil and added stp with no improvement.
Seems like oil is getting to thin for the tappets when it gets really hot.
Thought about getting an oil cooler but shouldnt need one on an r reg corsa.
Any help would be welcome.
|
corsa120
Member
Registered: 4th May 02
Location: Northamptonshire
User status: Offline
|
try thicker oil 10/40 i think some1 confirm this
also make sure its correct level my mrs done this hers seems to use oil
|
Kano
Member
Registered: 29th Aug 04
Location: Fife
User status: Offline
|
Its 10/40 thats in it. And a tub of STP.
And yes theres enough oil in it!
|
Greasemonkey
Member
Registered: 17th Apr 02
Location: Drives a Tractor
User status: Offline
|
Must be low oil pressure to the head, replace the oil pump ASAP before ya engine dies, Dont wait for the oil pressure light to come on cos then its too late the damage will be done
|
Kano
Member
Registered: 29th Aug 04
Location: Fife
User status: Offline
|
Why do u say pump. Its only done 60k and this is only an intermittant problem. I thought if pump was fucked it would be whenever oil got hot. Oil pressure light would be on if it was low enough pressure to cause a chap I wouldve thought. Is there any way of checking this?
[Edited on 18-04-2005 by Kano]
|
Greasemonkey
Member
Registered: 17th Apr 02
Location: Drives a Tractor
User status: Offline
|
It will tap top end long before the oil pressure light comes on, the light is pointless the damage is normally already done by the time the light is on, at steady speeds the oil pressure will be lower at high RPM it should be higher to get the oil to the important places quickly, if the pump is fooked the pressure wont be enough at high rpm. Whip the cam cover off and get a mate to start the engine, oil should shoot out the top about 2 ft in the air, lol, get him to shut it off quick though, lol. First thing is to do a flush through clean out the oil ways with a flush stick new oil in and try some tappet stuff from halfrauds thats meant to quiet them down. Might not be pump but might be, start with the easy stuff first
|
Kano
Member
Registered: 29th Aug 04
Location: Fife
User status: Offline
|
Ave tried that tappet treatment stuff in case it was one of the new tappets. Didnt think that was likely tho. Is there any way to check pump without replacing. They hard to replace? Can do most things but never had to do a pump. Any other ideas?
|
Greasemonkey
Member
Registered: 17th Apr 02
Location: Drives a Tractor
User status: Offline
|
Might cost ya £50 but will give ya usefull information and let ya monitor ya oil pressure, get an oil pressure guage fitted, its £30 for guage then fitting, they aint to easy to fit so get some one else to do it
|
Kano
Member
Registered: 29th Aug 04
Location: Fife
User status: Offline
|
Lol. A could probably get an oil pump for 50 quid. It would probably just depress me having an oil press guage. Would vxl be able to check pressure through computer?
|
Greasemonkey
Member
Registered: 17th Apr 02
Location: Drives a Tractor
User status: Offline
|
Vauxhall may be able to stick summit in the oil pressure sender to read it, when ya fit a guage ya have to use a splitter at this sensor to fit one, ring them up and ask, new pump is about £65 by the way i bough one for mine and i got mine cheap
|
Kano
Member
Registered: 29th Aug 04
Location: Fife
User status: Offline
|
I get trade prices so al be able to get it cheap to. Not keen on having hassle of changing pump if its not the problem tho. What are they like to change? Whats involved?
|
Greasemonkey
Member
Registered: 17th Apr 02
Location: Drives a Tractor
User status: Offline
|
involves removing the cam belt, auxillery belt, then undoing a few bolts, i did mine when i took me engine out and rebuilt it so it was easier when the engine is on a bench infront of you
|
Kano
Member
Registered: 29th Aug 04
Location: Fife
User status: Offline
|
Eh? Have to take sump off aswell tho eh? How long wud u say it would take to do with the engine in place?
|
Greasemonkey
Member
Registered: 17th Apr 02
Location: Drives a Tractor
User status: Offline
|
yeah man forgot that one, i would say its quite involved, if ya dropping the sump, i would also change the main and big end bearings and maybe fit ARP's while ya there and Metal Idler pulleys, hhhmmm gettin carried away now
|
Kano
Member
Registered: 29th Aug 04
Location: Fife
User status: Offline
|
Think al pass on the arps and shells. Just dont want it to chap. cud see me having to forget about the irmscher splitter this month! Al see what happens.
A really cant see it being pump. A turned it off one nite when it was chapping. When I started it in the morning it was chapping for ages. Thats what makes me think its not oil pump, because it shudve been fine with cold, thick oil.
|