Adam-D
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Registered: 11th May 02
Location: Cheshire
User status: Offline
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this is a new project, that ii dont know what do with, keep or sell.
got it and the gearbox is hoofed, so, thats the first job.
1600 sport, 50 odd k on the clock, network q car so it does have history
"i-e vaux put a new engine in at 38k due to belt failiure"
so.
gearbox removal
take the battery out, and the tray
10mm for the clamps, 13mm for the battery and tray
rusty tray, i will be rubbing it down and making it non rusty.
unbolt and move over the sai pump
2x 13mm
take the wheels off, jack up, and put on axel stands
17mm
undo the ball joint bolts both sides
2x 13mm
then pop the ball joints out, if you damage the rubber like i did, replace them
undo the clutch cable
unplug the speedo plug
and the reverse plug
take the linkage pin out, press the tab in at the bottom and push it upwards
and the linkage pivot pin
push the edges out, and lift up
then start takeing the starter off, this is tricky as there are some nuts you cant see, the wiring is in the way, and one nut is actuall a double, nut/bolt
4x 13mm and 1x 10mm using a deep socket for the 13mm
grab yourself some food/drink, and have some 
sort of the middle of this pic, is the rod to linkage bolt undo it and seperate them
1x 13mm
then pull the shafts out
grab an pull
and by now you should have 2 things, a tray to catch the fluid, and you should have cut yourself at least once
then start undoing the block to box bolts
array of 19mm, and 15mm
there is one at the top you have to take the box breather off, and use a 3/8th drive as a half inch wont go in,
19mm
now the box should have started to split away
so get a jck and a bit of wood, place it so it does not hit anything like the sump nut etc and take the weight of the engine with it
undo the front and rear box mounts
3x 15mm at the front
and 2x 18mm at the back
now lever the box away from the engine
and
and heres the clutch
now due to me not having the new box to go on, or the clutch has not arrived, most jacks creep down over time, so give the engine some extra support with a axel stand and some wood
now your done, have a celabratary double decker bar and some tea.
[Edited on 18-06-2008 by Adam-D]
[Edited on 13-07-2008 by Adam-D]
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lil_g
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Registered: 29th Oct 06
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 Great thread! Where's the tea at the end though?
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Adam-D
Member
Registered: 11th May 02
Location: Cheshire
User status: Offline
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on the stack of batteries behind me to the right
next copule of days i should have timing gear and new box on and done
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Colin
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Registered: 4th Apr 02
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I had a double decker today
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steddy-eddie
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Registered: 9th Jun 08
Location: bridlington
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the last pic is like a game of weres wally but weres the cup of tea lol
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Robin
Premium Member
Registered: 7th Jan 04
Location: Northants Drives: Clio 182 Cup
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OMG Weetos cereal bars 
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Adam-D
Member
Registered: 11th May 02
Location: Cheshire
User status: Offline
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while i am waiting for the new clutch and gearbox to arrive, i thought i would change the pollen filter.
so
unscrew 2 screw and lift off pass side
pull off the rubber seal
unbolt wiper arms
2x 13mm
and unscrew the other 2 screws and lift out the drivers side scuttle panel
there are 2 big ass plastic nuts, i undid with my fingers, you may need a big adjustable spanner
then pull out 2 little "normally yellow" clips and lift out the scuttle tray
then lift out the old filter from here
i decided to clean out all the leaves and crud in there so
1x 10mm and im taking the tank out
slide and lift out the way
when clean give it a bloody good rinse
then i cleaned the panels down to
then OH NOES--- !!RUST!!
so, time to sort that
120 grit to rub down, krust to treat the panel, etch primer to prime and seal, black for colour and waxoil to protect
primed
painted
i lube'd up the wiper linkage aswell
fitted the new filter
then clipped the lower panel back in and the washer tank bolted down,
copper greased the spindles and the screws
re-fitted the upper scuttle panel, again greaseing the screws
then put the arms back on again using a little copper grease.
and put it back together
[Edited on 13-06-2008 by Adam-D]
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Reedy
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Registered: 11th Apr 04
Location: Hammersmith
User status: Offline
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i didnt realise that the pollen filter is located there on the corsas.
Good work with the rust job
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Li-SRi
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Registered: 25th Oct 05
Location: Wirral
User status: Offline
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I was there when he replaced the pollen filter! 
[Edited on 15-06-2008 by Li-SRi]
[Edited on 15-06-2008 by Li-SRi]
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Rick Draper
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Registered: 10th Feb 01
Location: Cheshire
User status: Offline
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Sell it to me as it is!
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Adam-D
Member
Registered: 11th May 02
Location: Cheshire
User status: Offline
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right this is a 2 day update in one hit, ill do it as i did it.
as i waited to get the new clutch etc, i decided to do the timing gear then i got the cltuch and box so did that
then did the front brakes, here are the pics
some parts there arnt as many pics, but i was flat out working on it.
i used the haynes for reference on torque settings and for reference. no second guessing etc.
and i used a locking tool for the cams
first undo the airbox and remove it
taking the aux belt off, using 13mm spanner, and slacken tensioner and remove the belt
lobbing the aux belt
removed top cambelt cover
3x female torx
removed lower dirt shield
2x t20 torx and 2 8mm bolts
then the fun part, to crack off the lower crank bolt i had to lock it in a gear, and put the brakes on,
problem
gearbox was on the floor 
so with the help of a iron bar
the fly was locked
then i cracked the crank bolt
and took off the pulley
then spun engine till tdc was found and locked the cams
removed the lower cover
checked all timing marks
undid the tensioner
and off with the belt
unbolted the tensioner
the water pump had me puzzled a little it has a timing mark to the block
but the new one
didnt
old pump out
old and new pump
the new pump didnt have a timing mark but after a few mins it was clear that the notch is for the top securing bolt and the pump will only fit one way
all good i used some sealent, mounted the pump and used some loctite on the bolts
torque'd up all the new rollers and pump
and fitted the belt
spun the engine over by hand and checked the marks.
by now i was stuffed and called it a day, next day i got the new cltuch and gear box. and the drive belt
new clutch, pressure plate, and release bearing
new and old box
also, fitting a box in a garge, on your own, isn't good for you. trust me.
i cleaned the flywheel down
and fitted the clutch
the next bit involved lots and lots of swearing, hurting myself, trapping fingers, bits of wood and 2 jacks.
there anrt many pics, as i threw my phone aswell
main part if you fit a box with engine in situ, make sure the coolent galley solid pipe is clear, as its a twat to move it once the box is half in.
the one and only pic.
box being bolted in
connected the clutch and i filled it with some gm transmission oil
put the linkage and speedo back together
connected linkage, fitted starter and mounted rear mount
connected reverse sensor
and checked it all worked
then onto the tidy up jobs,
fitted the new aux belt
as stated i stuffed one of the ball joints, so i replaced them both
undoing the old...
new and old
and then fitted it.
then
as the car has been stood the disks have rusted to a point where i wouldn't consider them safe, they looked like new disks, but the pitting was quite bad, so they could shatter, so off with them
new disks,
hub was a bit manky
so got the wire brush out
greased the disk to hub mating face
hammerite an a brush
then rubbed down the calipers, greased the moving parts and sliders
fitted it together and painted them
then dropped it back on its wheels
last job today was to sort the battery tray as it was rusty
so heres one i made earlier
next job is tidy up rear brakes cos its been stood and there stuck on a little.
[Edited on 15-06-2008 by Adam-D]
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Adam-D
Member
Registered: 11th May 02
Location: Cheshire
User status: Offline
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right, rear brakes time, they were sticking
and it turned out to be the cable.
but i re-greased the bearings, cleaned the shoes, and painted the drums while i was at it.
heres some pics
first up the fuel light came on, so i got 10 litres of optimax
then the brakes
first pop the hub nut cap off
then pull the split pin out, i used new ones on re-assembly
undo the centre nut
then remove the toothed washer
and pull off the outer bearing race
pull the drum off
i then cleaned the shoes down and greased the self adjusters and put new grease on the bearings
bolted it back together and painted the drums
while that was drying i decided to free up the bias valve
i also changed the fuel filter
undoing the filter clamp
pop the little clips
and refit new filter, remebering to put the rubber surround over the new filter
[Edited on 16-06-2008 by Adam-D]
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Adge
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Registered: 28th Aug 04
Location: Lancashire
User status: Offline
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nice mate, new brakes look very good!
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Simon_16v
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Registered: 14th Aug 06
Location: Yorkshire
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Seriously you should start doing some tutorials as these are helpful
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Jon_C
Premium Member
Registered: 7th Dec 05
Location: Suffolk
User status: Offline
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This one is gettin plenty of lovin. Is it a project or a quick fix up and sell on?
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Adam-D
Member
Registered: 11th May 02
Location: Cheshire
User status: Offline
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dont know, i have 4 cars and space for 2.
i have my other corsa. so this one may be for sale. it has its mot wednesday. see what happens then
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WMCMoo
Member
Registered: 22nd Sep 06
Location: Rushall, West Midlands
User status: Offline
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Nice matey loving the tutorial like thread
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pow
Premium Member
Registered: 11th Sep 06
Location: Hazlemere, Buckinghamshire
User status: Offline
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Loving the step by step
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Adam-D
Member
Registered: 11th May 02
Location: Cheshire
User status: Offline
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went in for its mot, failed on a "rough feeling bearing" on the back
so
a hour later i had fitted a new one
and she now has a mot yay
old bearing tapped out,
old and new bearing
new bearing in
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marklawton
Member
Registered: 24th Apr 05
Location: Pensby, Wirral Drives:Golf mk4 GTI
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nice one. maybe chris should learn off you, lol
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Adam-D
Member
Registered: 11th May 02
Location: Cheshire
User status: Offline
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i feel sorry for chris, there is only 2 other things to change on his car, after that. im out of ideas
now, i know the drivers side bearing is the same age as the passenger one that fail'd the mot, so ive just gone a purchased one and fitting it now, so ive done both rear bearings together, i dont like doing 1 side on its own.
then to give it a bloody good clean and polish
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jacko198
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Registered: 1st Mar 07
Location: Buckinghamshire
User status: Offline
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Nice thread!
As said above, should make tutorials on this
 I wish i could change my cambelt myself, £70 for the kit + water pump
Got a quote for it all fitted for £230!
Fancy fitting mine for me
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Adam-D
Member
Registered: 11th May 02
Location: Cheshire
User status: Offline
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it takes me the best part of a say to do a cambelt, i check re-check and check again, they still worry me
and ive just finished fitting a new bearing to the drivers rear. so ive done them in a pair.
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Adam-D
Member
Registered: 11th May 02
Location: Cheshire
User status: Offline
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gave it a clean today,
ive never had to take off the rain gutters on a corsa, till today
heres an after pic
and the before pic and the reason i un clipped the gutters
[Edited on 19-06-2008 by Adam-D]
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Adam-D
Member
Registered: 11th May 02
Location: Cheshire
User status: Offline
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right the deadlocks didnt work
this is a very very common problem with corsa b's
its down the the lock ring outer edge brake-ing off, and thus not activating the micro switch
so for less than a tennner i got one and fitted it.
the new lock ring
pull off the mirror cover
recover the white pop clips and clip back into the panel.
lever off the handle cover and pop out and feed throu the mirror switch
unscrew the 3 screw holding the handle in place and remove
then unscrew the 8 screw holding the lower pocket in
and detach/unclip the wire plugs
then unscrew the 3 screws holding the door card in and lift it up
peel back some of the weather strip
have a fish around the bottom of the door
you should find the remains of the lock ring
undo the 2 10mm bolts holding the rear window runner in, pull it to the front of the door and downward, it will unclip,
and them undo the 2 10mm holding the rear alu lock plate in
unclip the micro switch, and the yellow tab and pop the bar/rod out
this is where the new ring goes
unclip the circlip and lift off the top bit, the next bit is the ring, pull it off carefully
then clip in the new ring to the top bit
and there is a tiny black bearing it goes in the small hole/gap
then put back on and reclip the circlip back in
this is what you have removed
then put it back in the door remembering to reclip the bar/rod in and the micro switch
put the handle and window runner back in
tape the weather strip back on
and put the door back together.
your dead locks now work.
my bro like to polish/detail, so i let him loose with some of his fancy blue polish and
the bonnet
and reflection
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