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Author on an engine rebuild
taylorboosh
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Registered: 3rd Apr 07
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21st Oct 11 at 15:19   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

what should be replaced? what needs checking? is it easy enough?
Gary
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21st Oct 11 at 15:22   View Garage View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

quote:
Originally posted by john-d
what should be replaced? loads of stuff

what needs checking? loads of stuff

is it easy enough?
if your having to ask the 2 previous questions, then i'd say yes
AK
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21st Oct 11 at 15:25   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

you replace what needs replaced.

as a matter of course bearings, seals and gaskets, rings are changed normally.

Pistons, crank, cams etc should all be checked for wear, scoring etc.

taylorboosh
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21st Oct 11 at 15:27   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

what i mean is, im fairly competant. i can change brakes, suspension ect. never tried to rebuild an engine, its a small 1970s engine so im hoping simpler?

is it some thing a novice should try
AK
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21st Oct 11 at 15:29   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

if you have a note of tolerances for checking, and torque for rebuilding i cant see why not.

Strip, clean, check, check check, dry build, check tolerances for bearings etc (plastiguage), clean, build/lube etc - kaboom

Does it need rebuilt?

[Edited on 21-10-2011 by AK]
taylorboosh
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21st Oct 11 at 15:31   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

its an unknown quantity... planning on turbo conversion on it.. have the means to lower compression already just would like to know its right enough first
AK
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21st Oct 11 at 15:33   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

maybe just do a compression test (leak down) on it to see if its in an ok state just now? Run

it for a while as is (or has that been done)?

I always say if its isnt broken, dont fix it A couple of engine 'builds' I've paid for have prob seen the engine in a worse state that it was before
taylorboosh
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21st Oct 11 at 15:37   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

well the car is from 1973 and i have no proof of servicing ect, the oil that came out was black as fuck. cylinder head needs to come off anyway and im changing the cam anyway??

taylorboosh
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21st Oct 11 at 15:38   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

ete Richards ("benwick3") has built and is troubleshooting a 930-headed race motor for his Clan Crusader. I think he posted some details about the work he has done to the cylinder head. He seems to be of the opinion that there is real potential there. And why not?

Depending upon the resources you have at your disposal - as in mates with engineering firms or pots of money - you might consider drilling the ports out to Sport specification (or at least considerably larger than stock 930 size) and having aluminium alloy sleeves welded in to give you your new ports. Substantial work would also be needed in the port throat area just beneath the valve to blend in the sleeves and you would need to pressure test the head casting to ensure that there were no coolant jacket leaks. All possible, though.

Aside from that and the manifolding, control logic (boost management, ignition timing control, fuel/air mixture, etc.), it ought to be straightforward. The bottom end could remain more standard, although I would want to add a block strengthening plate, main bearing cap studs, ARP big end bolts and so on, as well as a bronze oil pump drive gear, competition timing chain, timing chain tensioner stop and the usual race engine goodies because of the rev potential you are shooting for.



snippet from imp forum of what id need to do although the thread hasnt been up long and its a pretty dead place
philip2
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21st Oct 11 at 15:38   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

what engine is it matey?
taylorboosh
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21st Oct 11 at 15:39   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

engine in question

taylorboosh
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21st Oct 11 at 15:41   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

875 from a hillman imp... would prefer to do work myself as i enjoy doing it and learning how things work
Gary
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21st Oct 11 at 16:17   View Garage View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Haynes manual available for them?
ed
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21st Oct 11 at 16:25   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

If you have the means and the time then there's no better way of learning how things work by doing. Have you heard it running at all because it might not be necessary to take the pistons and crank off, you can also do a compression test as AK said to check the health of the bores/rings.
taylorboosh
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21st Oct 11 at 16:26   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

mate i have atleast 6-7 differant manuals for it.... including a haynes and also a gen rootes workshop one... didnt think to look for rebuilds in them lol
taylorboosh
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21st Oct 11 at 16:27   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

yes it was running, water pumps fucked though and shat itself on my floor
ed
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21st Oct 11 at 16:27   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Should have all the strip and rebuild procedures in them along with the tolerances and torque settings. Go for it
taylorboosh
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21st Oct 11 at 16:35   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

I was going to do it regardless of what people said... More interested in what i will need to source...
AK
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21st Oct 11 at 17:06   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

you'll find that out one you strip it

New gaskets and seals... 100%
taylorboosh
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21st Oct 11 at 17:09   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Yea those are given. Wasthinking of some uprated gaskets.. what would be best
AK
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21st Oct 11 at 17:21   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

just a metal layered HG (cometic etc) , slightly thicker if skimming the head or lowering compression a touch. (not two like a courtney turbo conversion )
taylorboosh
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21st Oct 11 at 17:30   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Yea it will be a tad thicker but i have a larger cc head to lower compression
Ian
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21st Oct 11 at 17:30   View Garage View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

You'll definitely learn a lot doing it.

Probably doesn't 100% need it though and you might spend money on consumables for it to be no better when it's done, very minimum is gaskets, belts and head bolts, probably more when you get it open. Typically about £100 worth of stuff before you even uprate anything, and that's assuming you have every tool that you might need.

Also need to lock the cams to get it back together? That needs a tool or a bodge. Not impossible to do on the cheap but it may test your patience.

Consider as well the cost if you total junk it, I work on the assumption that stuff I work on I can replace the engine even if complete balls it up fairly cheaply. Not sure how the supply of your engine is.

[Edited on 21-10-2011 by Ian]
taylorboosh
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21st Oct 11 at 17:48   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Pretty easy to source a cheap engine tbh. Thing is the allure is i want a engine thats safe to handle 120 bhp and that is fun and revvy... 8k rpn is what i aim for as plenty have engines capable of that
Ian
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21st Oct 11 at 17:50   View Garage View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

8krpm generally needs good rods and bolts and pistons which aren't too heavy. You should be OK because displacement is low in the engine but an engine with a smaller stroke and larger bore is preferable for this.

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