myke
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Registered: 7th Feb 01
Location: High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire
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just had an engine rebuild,
was wondering how long it should be run in for, and what revs it should be limited to?
was told that most of the running in was done in the first 10 minutes of running and that a couple of hundred miles was sufficient to bed everything down properly.
any opinions or pointers please?
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flash22
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Registered: 13th Sep 05
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1000-1250 miles is the norm try and keep it below 3000 rpm for the first 500 miles at the 500 mark its worth changing the oil aswell to get rid of the swarf and other carp in the oil
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Ry_B
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Registered: 1st Dec 05
Location: Solihull, W Mids Drives: 45BHP beast!
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There is no definitive answer.
About 1000 miles below 3000rpm ish, then after that slowly 1000 more rpm every 100 miles IMO.
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ed
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Registered: 10th Sep 03
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Technically you don't need to run engines in these days.......
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Nic Barnes
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Registered: 5th Apr 04
Location: nowhere near ginger people
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ofcourse you need to run it in????? ed????? thats not like you to say that.
change the oil as soon as the engine has warmed up to get rid of more swarf etc. 500 miles ideally should be enough, as you say, everything will hve bedded in before that anyway
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Greasemonkey
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Registered: 17th Apr 02
Location: Drives a Tractor
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quote:
Originally posted by muppetsport
ofcourse you need to run it in????? ed????? thats not like you to say that.
change the oil as soon as the engine has warmed up to get rid of more swarf etc. 500 miles ideally should be enough, as you say, everything will hve bedded in before that anyway
 Spot on, change ya oil and fiilter at least 3 times during the running in period, when i did it i started off on a really thin mineral oil and increased the viscosity of the oil with every change untill i was running the standard reccomeded spec.
Its not just a case of keeping the revs down below 3000rpm you gotta vary the load on the engine to force the rings into the bore walls and bed them in. Make lots of gear changes vary the load, change the oil as said and you should have a healthy engine. Its sometimes a good idea to do a compression test once the engine is first started and a few times during the running in period to monitor the progress. Its a bit of a personal choice but most will agree what i have said is the norm
Good luck, my engine destroyed its self during its first running in period but thats another story 
[Edited on 23-03-2006 by Greasemonkey]
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Nic Barnes
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Registered: 5th Apr 04
Location: nowhere near ginger people
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yeah, its not as such about the 3000rpm limit as greasemonkey says. its all about varying the load, up and down the rpm. say cover 250 miles, oil change then maybe take it to 4000rpm, then at 500 take it to 5000 but dont kill it just drive it steady up to those rpm, then let the engine bring the rpm back down itself, say in 3rd or 4th. this is what ive been doing. common myth about using a and b roads, its not about what road you drive on, more about how you drive, ie varying loads. could do it on the motorway, although i reckon some people would get annoyed at 40mph behind you.
ive got 198 miles left to do on my running in, all has been well. revving the car to near 5000rpm, not heavy load and keeping it out of boost as much as possible. think ive done 5-6 oil changes so far.
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ed
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Registered: 10th Sep 03
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It's only technically, in practice you do.
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Nic Barnes
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Registered: 5th Apr 04
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so what, just put oil in a freshly built engine and drive it like you want? wtf?
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Greasemonkey
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Registered: 17th Apr 02
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Modern engines coming out the factorys nowdays dont need running in because they are built with very close tollerances, when ya re-build an engine you wont be re-building it as precise as that so the running in period is there so the new componants fitted during the re-build wear down to the right tollerance. But were talking 1000ths of mm
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Nic Barnes
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some modern cars still come witha 500 mile recomended 'dont spank its ass' warning. i think vw's do anyway
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myke
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Registered: 7th Feb 01
Location: High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire
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cheers for the pointers guys.
i'd planned to put a quick few hundred on it before saturday and take it to santa pod, but it look slike thats not sucha great idea
i've done my first 150 miles tonight. first 80 below 3k, then got bored and gradually started bringing it up towards 4k.
not stop start as such, but taking it up and down the range as you say greasemonkey.
might do another couple of ton below 3.5k, change oil, another 300 up to 4.5k, change oil, then go for it.
hows that sound?
it'd take a me about 6weeks to do 1000miles
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ed
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Registered: 10th Sep 03
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You don't want to keep the revs too low, or you will polish the bores and you don't want to keep the car cruising too much at higher revs or you will polish the bores...
What you need to do is take it easy, but make sure you use a near complete rev range.
Though that was a complete waste of time me telling you that because you don't have fresh bores? Only fresh pistons, rings and the rest?
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myke
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Registered: 7th Feb 01
Location: High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire
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old pistons, honed bores, new rings, all new bottom end bearings. new valve oil seals, but otherwise old components in the head. new belt.
what you reckon? still full on run-in? all the touching surfaces in the bottom end are either new or have been refreshed.
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Greasemonkey
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Registered: 17th Apr 02
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Even with just new rings you need to do a full running in. SOunds ok what your doing, its not an exact science but altering loads is very important. I run my car in in 3 days haha
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Nic Barnes
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Registered: 5th Apr 04
Location: nowhere near ginger people
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there are so many different ways people suggest runnign an engine in so just do what you feel happy with. im calling mine quits shortly as it all seems on the money. will give it a final oil change on monday then take it for a little bit of excersize the throttle cable on the motorway.
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Siberia
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Registered: 9th Oct 03
Location: Leprechaun Land Drives : Zafira GSI
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with all the plugs out and the fuel pump relay out... turn the engine over until the oil pressure light goes out... then a further 20 sec after that...
put plugs and relay back in fire it up... let it heat up to operating temp...
first 20 miles are the most important... find a clear road... drive the car so that your in 4th gear bring the speedo down to the lowest you can taht it will stay started in that gear... put the accelerator on the floor(WOT... wide open trottle) untill your at 3k rpm then let your foot off quickly so as to snap the trottle shut... repeat this 20 times...
go home change your oil and filter...
next drive the car on soem b roads... constantly change the rpm using 2nd 3rd and fourth... dont rev above 4k... and be carefull when changing down the gears(let clutch out slowly) after 150-200 miles.. go home change your oil and filter
do the above paragraph but this time done change the oil untill 600 miles
then do it again changing the oil at 1200... do a compression test then and check with the manual for tollerances...
[Edited on 24-03-2006 by Siberia]
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Michael B
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Registered: 21st Mar 05
Location: Ireland
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I find all this a bit fascinating. If your bringing the car down as low as the revs will go then flooring it in fourth what does this do for your car making it labour? Increase sharpness?
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Siberia
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the idea is as you floor it... the rings are forced out into the bore were the honing beds them in... by snaping the trottle shut... this creates a vacum that sucks oil up the bore walls in the honing cross patern... this cools the rings and also washes the bores...
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Siberia
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Registered: 9th Oct 03
Location: Leprechaun Land Drives : Zafira GSI
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oh and should add use mineral oil for your runin period... not syntetic...
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myke
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Registered: 7th Feb 01
Location: High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire
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that's interesting.
looks like it's an oil change for me first thing in the morning.
why is semi synth no good out of interest?
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Siberia
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Registered: 9th Oct 03
Location: Leprechaun Land Drives : Zafira GSI
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its not that its no good... its the fact that mineral oil isnt the best lubricant... you want a small amount of wear on the rings and the baring shels to bed them in... the mineral oil is good for this and is fine to use as long as its not left in the engine for ages...
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Siberia
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Location: Leprechaun Land Drives : Zafira GSI
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oh an i'm not just making this up... its out of the Bells engine rebuilding and runin book..
ive just finished runing in an sr20det this way with no problems yet *touches wood*
[Edited on 24-03-2006 by Siberia]
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myke
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Registered: 7th Feb 01
Location: High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire
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sweet.
cheers for the info, it's interesting reading.
anything in there about oil grade? do i use the same as i would normally or something different for the first change?
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Siberia
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Registered: 9th Oct 03
Location: Leprechaun Land Drives : Zafira GSI
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just use 10w40.. non senthetic... if you can find some...
if you cant find non synthethic just buy the cheapest looking shit you can find... tesco or something...
[Edited on 25-03-2006 by Siberia]
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