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Originally posted on http://www.mgcars.org.uk/MGF/mgfaq2.htm
Waxoyl
Waxoyl is a trade name of a product that has been around for many years and was a favourite PDI extra in the old days before cars were rust proofed at the factory.

Waxoyl is a substance for coating car parts. It protects metal from outer humidity.
Principals: where no water gets on metal there will be no rust.
It never gets `dry´ or hard because it is Wax. And it creeps in each small gap, when it is well warmed.

Before using it on older cars one should remove existing rust for example with ´Fertan`. That stuff changes the rust to another iron-oxide and must be washed off with water.

Use a compressor paint sprayer instead of the flimsy hand pump which Waxolyl supply.
Do NOT heat up when applying or before applying as this causes the constituents to separate and not work effectively. It is best done on a hot day.
Don't get over-spray on the headlight lens, it makes them have a slight milky look.
Remove both the front and rear bumpers, and spray the the bumper bars and metal work that are usually hidden from sight.
It may also prove sensible to to remove the plastic wheel liners too.
Another good preventative measure is to replace the catalytic converter bolts with stainless steel items from Mike Satur.
Full treatement involves 5 different spray-nozzles and a total of 48 points entered for full treatement
From an unofficial copy of Application schematic for the "F". No holes to drill - all 4 wheels off including front inner wheel arches (plastic). No mentioning of removing bumpers though
A compressor is essential to apply the main bulk of the Waxoyl. The aerosol cans are greatly overpriced and next to useless, the red bug-gun sprays are greatly overpriced and next to useless, and the black pressure pumps are greatly overpriced. I would probably say these are next to useless too, but at this point I stopped throwing my money down the drain. Conversely the aerosol cans of Waxoyl underseal are more reasonably priced, work well and produce a nice even finish.

Before starting it would be a good idea to clean all the mud from the rear wheel arches, by hose or whatever means depending on the depth of subsoil. The wheel arches have a desultory spray of underseal here and there, and a quick flashover with paint. Raise the car up on axle stands, take off the wheels, cover the hubs with newspaper and mask anything else you don’t want spraying. Take off the splash guards and the wheel arch trim. Wipe the wheel arches clean with white spirit - there must be no water trapped anywhere. Now cover the wheel arches with the squirty Waxoyl underseal, a medium even coat, including the vulnerable edges (ok, you can brush it on).

Now crawl under the safely-supported car. The undersealing here is no great shakes either. There will probably be several smallish grey primer areas on the floor pan, mostly next to the sill edge and around the large holes punched in the front. Wipe these clean and squirt them with underseal. This is almost fun, and if this were the B BBS I’d say go inside, clean up and have a few beers. Come back the next day and give it another coat. Now the Waxoyl can go on. The Dinitrol (Rover’s rust preventative) on the underside of my car is still fine after 5000 miles and I see no harm in spraying the whole of the underbody, subframes, lower engine bay, spare wheel tub, etc. Just spray everything metal you can see within reason except the exhaust system. Rubber and other non-metal components will not, in general, be damaged (read the instructions on the tin) and may benefit from the protection. The solvents in Waxoyl will tend to dissolve fresh underseal and it may run or retract from the edges so I would leave spraying the wheel arches until next year. Future Waxoyling the wheel arches will tend to ‘heal’ any chips in the underseal.

I believe compressors and air tools can be hired, and the hirer may well be able to advise on pressure, nozzle diameter etc. I’m not sure about long probes though. Of course you could always do the wheel arches then take the car to a garage specialising in this work and watch it being done. You also won’t have a garage floor covered in wax. If you do do it yourself with a compressor then an adequate face mask MUST be worn at all times.

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Originally posted by Icy
do u need to clean out the arches thoroughly before hand etc?

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