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Author Fireplace Project [Update: Finished Pg2]
RichR
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Registered: 17th Oct 01
Location: Waterhouses, Staffordshire
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30th Oct 12 at 09:19   View Garage View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Thought I'd put this all in one place as its starting to come together now

quote:
Originally posted by LiVe LeE

not got any of it with the gas fire fitted but after ripping the gas fire out:


temporary fire which was the only heating for 6months


The stove, painted in custom Gunmetal grey with brushed steel handles rather than the standard black with brass handles


last christmas


Lintel in




[Edited on 03-12-2012 by LiVe LeE]
RichR
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Location: Waterhouses, Staffordshire
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30th Oct 12 at 09:24   View Garage View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Then the fun and games started with bits not fitting and problems with stupid inoccuous fittings

Chimney Cowl ground off and Flue Liner in:




Register Plate first fix; GF's Dad is a Blacksmith so he made me up the steel work etc. Insulated with an Insulfrax high temp ceramic board


Problems with the Register Plate Adaptor have caused a delay; the one on the left is the one I've been sent 3 times and every time, it hasn't fit to the flue liner even though they assured me they tried it in the factory. One on the right is one my uncle gave me which did work.


so cut off the plate


and having never welded before, let alone tried welding stainless, I welded the plate to the correctly fitting adaptor


Then it all started coming together:




Blanking Plate in


and insulated both sides with ceramic fibre board


and lintel finally fixed in



[Edited on 30-10-2012 by LiVe LeE]
RichR
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30th Oct 12 at 09:26   View Garage View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Left to do now:

- Fill the chimney with Vermiculite
- Fit the new pot and cowl
- Point the gap between the lintel and brickwork
- Board out and plaster the reveal and chimney breast
- Repaint the stove as its got scratched and scuffed with moving it around and stuff falling down the chimney on to it
- Fit Stove

and done!!

[Edited on 30-10-2012 by LiVe LeE]
baza31
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30th Oct 12 at 12:40   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

You leaving the brickwork on show ?
Ben G
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Location: Essex
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30th Oct 12 at 12:46   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

it says above:

- Board out and plaster the reveal and chimney breast

nice work lee, that's going to look great when finished.
RichR
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30th Oct 12 at 12:58   View Garage View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

as said, brickwork is all getting plastered. Its battered and not in a rustic way tbh so wouldn't look that good anyway. The steel brackets I've made up to support the oak lintel will be hidden behind the plaster work.

Lintel should match in well to the flooring as I've got a similar coloured solid oak floor to lay later on
baza31
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31st Oct 12 at 09:01   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

if you plaster the reveal it will blow out the plaster, even if you render the walls it will blow out eventually. Only proper option is fireboard and paint or fireboard and tile
RichR
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31st Oct 12 at 09:09   View Garage View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

just out of shot is 10 sheets of Fireboard

Oh and the other reason for the vermiculite insulating the chimney is to not only ensure the draw and stop the flue condensating but also to prevent as much heat being lost into the chimney breast.

[Edited on 31-10-2012 by LiVe LeE]
Nismo
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31st Oct 12 at 09:39   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Will look nice all plastered, will you paint it a feature wall colour?
RichR
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31st Oct 12 at 09:41   View Garage View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

not sure yet, have to wait until the rest of the room is finished and that won't be until the extension is on and the back wall's knocked out. I'm building another false chimney breast in the extension to house the AV so I may well do both as the features and keep the rest of the room/wall plain and simple
mattk
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Registered: 27th Feb 06
Location: St. Helens
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31st Oct 12 at 10:54   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Im going through this now in my house, got all the chimney knocked out to reveal a clay lined chimney, so no need for a liner, saves me getting on the roof.

all started when I knocked the plaster off in the living room and found a massive opening in the chimney, we were just gonna put a leccy one in
Nismo
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31st Oct 12 at 21:22   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Love this room, even though its a false chimney, still works so well.

http://www.avforums.com/forums/home-cinema-building-diy/942339-homerdogs-hd-lounge.html
baza31
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1st Nov 12 at 00:29   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

quote:
Originally posted by mattk
Im going through this now in my house, got all the chimney knocked out to reveal a clay lined chimney, so no need for a liner, saves me getting on the roof.

all started when I knocked the plaster off in the living room and found a massive opening in the chimney, we were just gonna put a leccy one in


Fiord sake of few hundred quid your best putting a liner in, maintenance and installation is alot easier. Also no worries about breakdown of chimney and fumes coming through chimney into the rooms
RichR
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1st Nov 12 at 09:10   View Garage View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Nismo, that's pretty much what I have in mind but without the fire. Effectively, I'd replace the fire with shelving and recesses to support the other AV equipment. Good idea with the shelving/flooring left overs though
mattk
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1st Nov 12 at 12:13   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

quote:
Originally posted by baza31
quote:
Originally posted by mattk
Im going through this now in my house, got all the chimney knocked out to reveal a clay lined chimney, so no need for a liner, saves me getting on the roof.

all started when I knocked the plaster off in the living room and found a massive opening in the chimney, we were just gonna put a leccy one in


Fiord sake of few hundred quid your best putting a liner in, maintenance and installation is alot easier. Also no worries about breakdown of chimney and fumes coming through chimney into the rooms


Ive got a liner in the shed, It doesnt need to be lined, its lined with a 6 inch clay pipe, and it nearly drags your hand off it pulls that well
RichR
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1st Nov 12 at 12:26   View Garage View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

if it's just 6" you're probably ok but this is what puts me off clay liners

http://www.halnakerstoves.co.uk/chimneys/why-line-chimneys.aspx
mattk
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1st Nov 12 at 12:34   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

I dont really agree with that, that page to me looks like its just a hard sell

Where I live now at my mum and dads there is a stove installed in a normal brick chimney with no liner in, its been there for years with no problems and its udes nearly every night unless its boiling outside. chimney gets swept every 2 years or so. depends what your burning too. all our wood is kept in a nice dry shed to dry out completley

and that cottage in the link, if thats smelling of tar then the chimney wasnt sealed peopperly and probably wasnt propperly tested before the stove was put in
RichR
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12th Nov 12 at 09:23   View Garage View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

small update, got the reveal boarded out yesterday after we finally managed to get back on the roof to insulate the chimney and fit the new pot and hanger.

First trial fit of the fire and flu adaptor. mm precision!



should finish boarding tonight - aiming for first lighting of the fire after the weekend
baza31
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12th Nov 12 at 09:34   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

why have you boarded it with plasterboard? also by look of the angle are you skimming it? Ill give it 12 month till it blows and you have to re-do it properly
RichR
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12th Nov 12 at 09:39   View Garage View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

its fireboard and funnily enough, I had one done exactly the same as this nearly 5 years ago and its never had an issue

plus, I have an insulated flu and a hearth/wall temperature of sub 50degrees. The fire is designed to traject heat out rather than into the reveal so the air temperature around the fire should be more than ok and I'm using Vitcas in the reveal.

oh, and if it does blow (which I doubt) its no biggie if I have to do it again.

[Edited on 12-11-2012 by LiVe LeE]
baza31
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12th Nov 12 at 16:19   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

you mean fire rated plasterboard? why didnt you use an asbestalux eqivilant ? fire rated plasterboard isnt designed for the job . How does it traject heat out but not into the reveal ? why not just do job right and do it once?
RichR
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12th Nov 12 at 16:47   View Garage View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

its ceramic fibreboard, not Fireline Plasterboard; its good to 640degrees as is the Plaster from Vitcas- just so happens that they're both Pink. The ceramic Fibreboard/Firebaord is actually good to 1260degrees in its raw material state

Fire has a hearth and wall rating. Only area that would be at risk would be directly above and that's a metal plate. The reason it's no biggie if I had to replaster if something went wrong is because I've just qualifed as a palsterer so I'm more than happy to put it right should have to.

So in simple terms, it is being done "right" first time

[Edited on 12-11-2012 by LiVe LeE]
baza31
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12th Nov 12 at 17:02   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

looks good anyhow
Tom J
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12th Nov 12 at 18:24   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

what is the correct way to do the reveal? i'm wondering whether to render mine or try and clean and point the scabby bricks up

also what happens if your chimney liner is too long, do you have to cut it down or does it compress like a slinky

Lee-how much/where did you get the tiles for the hearth and how thick are they? is there a minimum thickness if theres concrete underneath?


[Edited on 12-11-2012 by Tom J]
baza31
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12th Nov 12 at 19:05   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Two choices either board it or clean brick up and repoint it . All depends on your preferance . If you get thermalux board as long as you cut it neat you can paint directly on top of the board

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