Would a broken king lead and very worn dizzy cap throw up an ecu light? - Corsa Sport - for Vauxhall and Opel Corsa B, Corsa C and Corsa D

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Corsa Sport » Message Board » Help Zone, Modification and ICE Advice » Would a broken king lead and very worn dizzy cap throw up an ecu light?

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Vauxdan88

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Registered: 13th Feb 11
Location: Weymouth Dorset
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23rd May 13 at 18:14

Xe Corsa,ecu light on and spluttering along, then cut out and won't start again. Got fuel and a very weak spark. Checked dizzy cap and 2 of the points are worn right down to barely anything. Took king lead off and the metal bit inside had actually snapped right on the corner,obviously that's going to cause a weak spark but would it throw up an ecu light?

corsa-torque

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Registered: 15th Mar 11
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23rd May 13 at 19:19

Iirc I'd say no, but by the sounds of it those parts need replacing, so I'd do that first then see what happens

Vauxdan88

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Registered: 13th Feb 11
Location: Weymouth Dorset
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23rd May 13 at 20:02

Would it not bring up a code for the hall sensor?

Gary

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Registered: 22nd Nov 06
Location: West Yorkshire
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23rd May 13 at 20:05

Wouldn't have thought so

Generation

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Registered: 7th Jul 09
Location: Essex
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23rd May 13 at 20:09

Sounds a bit like my help
Thread earlier today. Do you have a pic?

Hope you sort it mate

[Edited on 23-05-2013 by Generation]

Generation

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Registered: 7th Jul 09
Location: Essex
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23rd May 13 at 20:11

Also for your info
I bought mine today for less than £20
From carparts4less

Vauxdan88

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Registered: 13th Feb 11
Location: Weymouth Dorset
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23rd May 13 at 20:45

Yeah just looked at that and that's exactly what my dizzy caps like! Also got the broken king lead so it's obviously going to cause an intermittent spark,but just wondering if it'll put the ecu light on. Yeah can get one cheap anyway as my mums partner works at a local motor factors

no pic mate but if u mean of the dizzy cap,it's exactly like yours!

[Edited on 23-05-2013 by Vauxdan88]

Richie

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Registered: 3rd Dec 02
Location: Newport, Wales
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23rd May 13 at 23:06

If you did the code reading procedure with the engine off you will probs get a hall effect fault.

Vauxdan88

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Location: Weymouth Dorset
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24th May 13 at 08:10

Isn't it the crank sensor code you get if the engines off?

Richie

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Registered: 3rd Dec 02
Location: Newport, Wales
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24th May 13 at 15:35

Any hall effect sensor can throw a fault if the engines not running (crank and cam sensors are both hall). The test should always be done with the engine running

[Edited on 24-05-2013 by Richie]

Vauxdan88

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Registered: 13th Feb 11
Location: Weymouth Dorset
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24th May 13 at 15:46

Yeah but that's a bit hard when the engine won't start! Lol

corsa-torque

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Registered: 15th Mar 11
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24th May 13 at 17:27

Have you changed the dizzy and lead yet??

Generation

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Registered: 7th Jul 09
Location: Essex
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24th May 13 at 22:42

Did your new cap look like either of these mate?

Looks like might be two types?

Vauxdan88

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Location: Weymouth Dorset
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25th May 13 at 13:24

quote:
Originally posted by corsa-torque
Have you changed the dizzy and lead yet??

Yeah well dizzy cap and lead. No difference. But think I may of found the prob,or at least got closer to it! Got someone to read the codes and he said its 19 incorrect crank sensor signal,and 66, co potentiometer high voltage. I know 31 is no crank signal,so I kind of guess how that comes about,but not sure about 'incorrect' signal... And re the afm,think I may of damaged it with the air line,made sure I blew all pipe work etc out first before fitting,not realising how delicate the afm is.

Vauxdan88

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Registered: 13th Feb 11
Location: Weymouth Dorset
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25th May 13 at 13:24

quote:
Originally posted by Generation

Did your new cap look like either of these mate?

Looks like might be two types?

Bottom one looks like mine mate

Vauxdan88

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Registered: 13th Feb 11
Location: Weymouth Dorset
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25th May 13 at 15:45

Just looked at the afm,doesn't seem to be anything wrong with it, the 3? Wires seem to be intact with the 4 tiny little pin things. And the big bit sticking up in the middle with 2 wires coming off the bottom seems to be intact too...

Generation

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25th May 13 at 16:19

Is the new one the bottom one

Richie

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25th May 13 at 16:49

If you suspect the AFM then use a multimeter to see the voltage of it while your cranking - but I've never known an AFM preventing the car from starting.

To test you should have a 3 wire AFM - one will be +ve, one will be earth and the other will be signal output. With the engine off the output may be between 0 and 1 volt - with the engine running between 1 and 1.7 volts

[Edited on 25-05-2013 by Richie]

Richie

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25th May 13 at 16:52

quote:
Originally posted by Vauxdan88

quote:
Originally posted by corsa-torque
Have you changed the dizzy and lead yet??

Yeah well dizzy cap and lead. No difference. But think I may of found the prob,or at least got closer to it! Got someone to read the codes and he said its 19 incorrect crank sensor signal,and 66, co potentiometer high voltage. I know 31 is no crank signal,so I kind of guess how that comes about,but not sure about 'incorrect' signal... And re the afm,think I may of damaged it with the air line,made sure I blew all pipe work etc out first before fitting,not realising how delicate the afm is.

The potentiometer fault can be the o2/lambda sensor too. Have you checked it?

Vauxdan88

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26th May 13 at 11:13

quote:
Originally posted by Generation
Is the new one the bottom one

Yeah

Vauxdan88

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Location: Weymouth Dorset
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26th May 13 at 11:14

quote:
Originally posted by Richie
If you suspect the AFM then use a multimeter to see the voltage of it while your cranking - but I've never known an AFM preventing the car from starting.

To test you should have a 3 wire AFM - one will be +ve, one will be earth and the other will be signal output. With the engine off the output may be between 0 and 1 volt - with the engine running between 1 and 1.7 volts

[Edited on 25-05-2013 by Richie]

I don't suspect it to be the cause of not starting,but its a code that come up so it might well be the reason the car was spluttering when it actually did run! I have the 6 wire one with the little adjuster screw next to the plug connection.

And no haven't checked lambda. Is that right that one code can mean two different things? Would that cause it to splutter (when it was actually running)

[Edited on 26-05-2013 by Vauxdan88]

Richie

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Location: Newport, Wales
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27th May 13 at 00:25

So you have the early C20XE. Have you tried getting the car to start with the AFM and the Lambda unplugged??

Vauxdan88

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27th May 13 at 08:08

I have with the afm unplugged yeah,didn't make a difference. Not lambda though,could that stop the car from starting? I wouldn't of thought so coz surely the lambda doesn't start doing anything til gasses pass through it? Which of course isn't til the engine is running...

Vauxdan88

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Registered: 13th Feb 11
Location: Weymouth Dorset
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27th May 13 at 15:28

Just tried it with the lambda unplugged. Did nearly fire up,just didn't quite get there! Did once for about 2 seconds,just lumpy and died. Thinking,does the crank sensor determine the fuel and spark going in at the correct times? Coz I've definitely got both,just dunno if there going in at the right times..

Richie

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Registered: 3rd Dec 02
Location: Newport, Wales
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27th May 13 at 21:26

quote:
Originally posted by Vauxdan88
I have with the afm unplugged yeah,didn't make a difference. Not lambda though,could that stop the car from starting? I wouldn't of thought so coz surely the lambda doesn't start doing anything til gasses pass through it? Which of course isn't til the engine is running...

Precisely the point of unplugging it - if it's pumping out a crazy value due to a fault then unplugging it rules it out and sometimes forces the ECU to ignore other sensor values.

And yes the crank sensor plays that role heavily. Have you checked the connection to the crank sensor? It sometimes gets bent or shorted because of where it is. Also have you checked your timing belt hasn't slipped a tooth?

[Edited on 27-05-2013 by Richie]

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