Generation
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Registered: 7th Jul 09
Location: Essex
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(If any of you think I'm being a knob at pvs by revving before I leave, it's because of the above.
Anyway, AFM changed today and that took off the EML light, no other codes stored 
It still won't start when cold though  misfires a bit; then if I hold theottle down at about 1200 revs for a minute or two it idles perfectly and drives fine again.
Any ideas?
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BeArDy
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Registered: 7th Aug 00
Location: Manchester
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Are all earths good?
have you tested the CFS (even if its new)?
Checked Coilpack?
Checked HT Leads?
When drivings is it missing at any point?
Have you ran a wideband to see what your fuels like?
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Generation
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Registered: 7th Jul 09
Location: Essex
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quote:
Originally posted by BeArDy
Are all earths good?
have you tested the CFS (even if its new)?
Checked Coilpack?
Checked HT Leads?
When drivings is it missing at any point?
Have you ran a wideband to see what your fuels like?
Hi beardy, thanks for your reply
Earths were tested with Multi metre and all seemed good
I changed dizzy cap and rotor arm for brand new.
Tried another set of leads
Wasn't missing from driving with what I could tell (kept revs low as running in and EML was making it be in limp mode, AFM changed and light off now) misses when cold then idles perfectly afterwards
I do have a wideband seemed nicely adjusted when driving
By CFS, I assume you meant CTS? If so, not tested it by code from ecu has now gone since replacing.
Thanks again.
I think from what others have said, it's timing. As pullies were removed at weekend, since then it's not started. I have no clue how to do with verniers either, so am stuck
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Nic Barnes
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Registered: 5th Apr 04
Location: nowhere near ginger people
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Surely that bloke that built the engine should sort that for you if its his mistake?
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Generation
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Registered: 7th Jul 09
Location: Essex
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I'm sure he will do, just don't want to call him down if that isn't the issue, and waste his time
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BeArDy
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Registered: 7th Aug 00
Location: Manchester
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Sorry ye CTS.
Also just because the ECU light is out that dosent mean a sensor can be faulty.
You could have a sensor out if range giving the ECU a wrong reading.
As for timing alittle 50/50 as you report it runs fine and the plugs are really wet.
What it like to drive once going?
What ECU you running?
Have you swopped for new plugs?
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Generation
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Registered: 7th Jul 09
Location: Essex
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It did run fine, then timing belt was removed same time as AFM changed since then doesn't start at all.
Drive ok when it did last start as said though, was in limp mode due to AFM.
Was on eds phase 3.5, tried standard ecu since and same problem.
Not swapped for new plugs, didn't see the point in doing so, as only reason they got wet was due to a problem making it not start in first place.
Thanks again for help
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Generation
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Registered: 7th Jul 09
Location: Essex
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Took throttle to start it, but started back up again straight away
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o223/markaker/Vegas/78CBC846-0689-467E-BB68-5A23A391E29B-5963-000002CFC1405E77_zpsf8d939ab.mp4
Fuel pressure is down
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o223/markaker/Vegas/BD8BB821-2DB3-4466-9B8B-04AC69E5A640-5963-000002D09D070921_zpsfe7e5cbf.mp4
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Generation
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Registered: 7th Jul 09
Location: Essex
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Noticed pump wire was off relay, which is why fuel pressure was so low.
Back to normal pressure now, not starting again though :/
?
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Generation
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Registered: 7th Jul 09
Location: Essex
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Anybody??
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Generation
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Registered: 7th Jul 09
Location: Essex
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Dragged myself outside to do a bit today
New rotor cap again
Leads fit on fully now
Foot well
Earths on left of the rail
Earth bolt
I out earths under this bolt directly on rail, this is correct??
Still same as before, doesn't fire.
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BeArDy
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Registered: 7th Aug 00
Location: Manchester
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Have you checked all earths with a volt meter?
You done a compression test?
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Generation
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Registered: 7th Jul 09
Location: Essex
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This is my next step mate,hopefully i get some times on
It this week. I have another set of I je toes on way anyway, so will test old then new, will rail is off I can check earths
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FlaFFy_91
Premium Member
Registered: 30th Sep 08
Location: Formby, Merseyside
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Who soldered them wires up mate? Looks terrible. Are you sure there connected up properly. No breaks in them anywhere?
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Generation
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Registered: 7th Jul 09
Location: Essex
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That one was pulled about a bit, better than in pic, rest are all fine and look much better too
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Generation
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Registered: 7th Jul 09
Location: Essex
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Done a bit this evening.
Changed all injectors, car now fires every single time, but cuts out straight away. As it gets warmer like before it stays running for longer. I have every confidence I could drive it now, by holding throttle like I did before to it. But it's off road and SORN now.
Will upload a video if codes in a sec, one code appears just constant flashing :/ weird
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o223/markaker/Vegas/135D8C2D-ABD1-4F08-A6CB-8E1CD8503111-19424-000009DB37206827_zps534864d9.mp4
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Generation
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Registered: 7th Jul 09
Location: Essex
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Just changed crank sensor and its the same as before (as expected) was mis firing, but would keep alive if I held throttle down. And then start straight back up. Blue smoke out the back and wouldn't rev up at all. No EML light on. Next up to try is ICV I think.
Old
Different designs
Old one didn't have an I ring around it when I looked few weeks ago was some sealant that kind of broke away in my hand, so had nothing on it and was understandably oily.
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AlexW
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Registered: 25th Oct 08
Location: Essex
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No EML?! Weird!
The wiring coming away from the sensor is enough reason for me wanting to change it, that could have caused issues in the future.
Try the ICV, if you want a hand or anything, you know where to find me.
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Generation
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Registered: 7th Jul 09
Location: Essex
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It's a PITA to change mate as you know, if I knew the one I had here was good I'd fit it, tempted to buy a brand new one, £90 odd though
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AlexW
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Registered: 25th Oct 08
Location: Essex
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Even a PITA I'd consider it, rather than pouring more money away.
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Generation
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Registered: 7th Jul 09
Location: Essex
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What makes you think it's that mate? How does it work/not work in a way to effect engine like this
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AlexW
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Registered: 25th Oct 08
Location: Essex
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It works like a valve, If its stuck half open or such, it could be giving it enough air to run once up to temp, but not enough while its cold.
Obviously revving it removes that issue.
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Generation
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Registered: 7th Jul 09
Location: Essex
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Well it was running on 2. So changed to ngk spark plugs as old ones were wet and fouled and started firstu time on all 4! Sounded perfect, cut out after around 20 secs due to cold start issue (what is this?) but have every faith it's driveable again now  just couldn't test as no tax/MOT and and it a shared driveway and didn't want to piss neighbour off and so loud and echoes of both property's.
So, how the fook do I fix cold start?
And my explanation is, it stopped starting de to bad injectors that why fired after me and Alex changed them, but plugs were fouled up still, so weak spark hence firing on 2, sound good?
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AlexW
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Registered: 25th Oct 08
Location: Essex
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I have thought about this weak spark thing the whole time, It could cause your issues.
Really don't know how to solve it though. Will have a bit more of a think...
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Generation
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Registered: 7th Jul 09
Location: Essex
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It fires every time just cut out..
Held throttle until warm and now it's idling by itself and drivea now
It's now 11.3 (wideband)after putting fpr to 3.5 Barr with vac on...
Put 3.5 Barr with vac off and fpr is now 12 on wideband
Exhaust
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o223/markaker/Vegas/09418A80-6A8C-4E7C-89CA-5C05ADD4F304-6232-000003B685ED1335_zps040dd686.mp4
When its cold it does this
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o223/markaker/Vegas/1E23CE63-EEB8-4364-B6FA-3B0960FD35AB-6232-000003B7A6A1388F_zpsf4060340.mp4
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