Rybo
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Registered: 6th Mar 08
Location: Cumbria
User status: Offline
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as above realy ive got it on an engine stand to replace the redtop in my corsa and have had the botom end reconditioned including new bearings etc and have put arp rod bolts in just to be safe while im there i thought i might as well
basically my engine is a dispac one so im assuming that it has the later,heavier flywheel- is there any mileage in using an earlier one?(would i need to buy an early clutch kit?)getting mine lightened and balanced a bit or buying one already done and keeping my existing clutch (its only done a 1000 miles)
now my mate is into building serious mini engines and has offered to rebuild the head- we was discussed as follows as he is very capable-
port and polish
renew stem seals and re-seat valves
mild/fast road cam kit including new lifters (ive priced up a kent kit any better ideas? i know im pretty limited without pocketed pistons but ive gotta underule my budget somewhere)
is the standard manifold okay for this limited tuning? would i realy see worthy gains from a sbd one etc?
and is it worth getting a remap on a rolling road/superchip to compliment the above?
i know what i plan to do is rather minimal compared to a lot of you lads but im not after a monster i just want better than standard power combined with reliability but of course its got to be cost affective otherwise i would of just put a let in
thanks for any advice and opinions in advance boys
ryan
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Ellis
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Registered: 11th Sep 07
Location: Aberdeenshire
User status: Offline
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I could do with this answering also, my rebuild is commencing soon - mildly tuned would be nice 
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philip2
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Registered: 1st Oct 06
Location: n.wales/chester
User status: Offline
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my mate built a mild C20xe last year, on the rollers it made 180bhp, and would drill a lads vx220 and a mates st205 cleica gt4.
mates spec:
big end/mains bearings
sump/head set
headbolts
water pump
cambelt kit
re-rung
lightened/balanced
mantzel power cap
ported/polished head(i worked head)
decat and superchip.
if building a reliable motor without mega mega money. id suggest:
usual bearings/gaskets, water pump, rebuilt original oil pump. etc
re-rung(if bores within tolerances) with pockets machined deeper(run larger cams) or pay the £248 for a set of mahle pistons 86.5mm(0.5mm oversized) with deeper pockets in them - autosprint)
ported/polished head(obv check guides for wear, stem seals, seats cut and valves cut)
lightened and balanced bottom end
something like a 278degree cam(would need deeper pockets obv)
decent inlet(powercap or similar)
superchip(ive never used any chip though)
that way you have a nice fresh engine, where you could put tbs or carbs on at a later date and not really have to change much else for time being.
id suggest newman cams or catcams though over kent
if need to know anymore pm/u2u me 
phil
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fazza
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Registered: 7th Feb 08
Location: Plymouth
User status: Offline
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as he said but you will want courtenay group N chip for it.
powercap wont make much difference though imo
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Vaux Lad
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Registered: 15th Dec 04
Location: Stoke-on-Trent
User status: Offline
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I wouldn't go with cams that need deeper piston pockets if you're staying with the std ecu etc.
They wont work too well with the std ecu and afm
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philip2
Member
Registered: 1st Oct 06
Location: n.wales/chester
User status: Offline
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you shouldnt have a problem running something like a 270 cam though if using a chip or get mapped anyway.
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Rybo
Member
Registered: 6th Mar 08
Location: Cumbria
User status: Offline
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so what "spec" is a 270 cam? (what would i ask for? and is that the inlet cam or exhaust? i understand how a cam works but dont know what tollerances i can get away with...im keeping the standard pistons as the bottom end has been done now?
and you think a courtney group n chip is the way to go to compliment a cam kit?
ive allready got a decat/powercap but appreciate i probalby wont gain anything from them alone if at all...
thanks guys keep the good advice comong
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Richardhhha
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Registered: 29th Sep 07
Location: Croydon, Greater London
User status: Offline
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id love to do this to my engines.. Just because i really like working on engines =p and im a git as all bolts have to be alligned and every thing has to be spotlessly cleaned, even the threads of the bolts have to be re shaped and cleaned..
I would:
New gasket's throughout
New shell's main and big end
New ring's and gudgin pins
Hoaning or a re boar depending on state of boar's
ARP rod bolts
Bottom end fully ballanced
Lighter flywheel with clutch to match
New oil pump, water pump, cambelt kit
Set of fast road cam's (mild)
Ported head with new valve guides and oil seals
Head checked for porousness
Re map
Alloy pulleys
Decat with a good manifold and exhaust system..
If it was me it would take me about a week to just re build the engine as i would send the block off and get it stove enameled, all new bolts/nuts/studs, lots of polishing, all bolts have to be alligned and all screws, new stainless pipe clips, and dip stick would get polished, it would be the cleanest engine i could possibly do... The head would get send off and get tumble polished by steve smethurst.. Make it look very shiny.. Make my own engine loom, gearbox would get stripped and most things replaced and everything cleaned whilst the bellhousing and gear casing would get powder coated... But thats just me
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Rybo
Member
Registered: 6th Mar 08
Location: Cumbria
User status: Offline
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ive given it a bit of paint and a few chrome/samco bits but feel free to come up to my house and do all that with my engine bud lol...but seriously guys? what is the best cam kit for me?
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philip2
Member
Registered: 1st Oct 06
Location: n.wales/chester
User status: Offline
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go for either the q42h or the q38h both from QED. both can be new from blanks or as regrounds.
£190 each for blanks + vat or £190 for regrinds a pair + vat
ther q42h ideally want pockets deepening(about £80) but work on hydraulic followers.
id probably go for the Q38H as slightly milder, no need for piston mods either. stil use single springs so all good. and there cams are good. would suit a ported/polished head/chip. decent exhaust too.
could also sort a fully ported head, skimmed, new seals etc too if need be. depends how far you'd want to go with the head thats all. wether youd want new guides too.(£7.00 each supplied/fitted and seats cut too suit)
hope this helps
[Edited on 18-11-2008 by philip2]
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Rybo
Member
Registered: 6th Mar 08
Location: Cumbria
User status: Offline
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philip2 you have u2u...i have a decent exhaust system but std manifold?
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philip2
Member
Registered: 1st Oct 06
Location: n.wales/chester
User status: Offline
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stock manifolds are ment to be good for around 200 anyway
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Rybo
Member
Registered: 6th Mar 08
Location: Cumbria
User status: Offline
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i had heard that...but im allready running my rad moved foreward and a front mounted fan so i'd be okay room wise
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philip2
Member
Registered: 1st Oct 06
Location: n.wales/chester
User status: Offline
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you wont have any problems then, just get saving. id definately suggest getting some deeper pockets pistons though(or have your current ones machined. there on a floating pin so no ballache of pressing them off, machining then pressing back on. cost £70 or there about
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